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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bo Diddley T 
Cruising for Bulgar T 
Dreams Of Darkness T 
Dreams Of Light T 
Good Cleavage T 
Marsupial T 
Reckless Abandoned T,TR 
Seamed Like Fun. T,TR 
Sick and Wrong T 
Sugar Glider T 

Sugar Glider 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Peter Spindloe, Tony Bubb
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 341
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Feb 23, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Sugar Glider ascends up out of a hidden cave throu...

Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This climb is the first obvious crack right of Marsupial. To find the start, downclimb into "The Pouch" behind the large detached flake, walk right to where the pouch opens up into a dropoff.

The climb starts with a scramble up a ramp on a detached block. When the main wall becomes vertical, place some pro and step off the block onto the face. The right crack is a little easier, the left a little harder. Continue straight up the thin crack to a ledge and then up into an leftward diagonaling trough, belay here.

To get to the top of "Cruising for Bulgar" (and from there the rappel) climb the trough until it is easy to climb the bulging wall above.


Well protected except for a slightly runout top (at a much easier grade). Hand size cams and a range of stoppers will protect the climb very well. A #2 camalot and some medium stoppers will suffice for a belay.

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