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Little Rock Candy Mountain
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My Balls feel like a Pair of Maracas 
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Sugar Daddy 
Three Musketeers, The 

Sugar Daddy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chick Holtkamp and John Lakey, February 1978
Page Views: 394
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Sep 15, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: "Sugar Daddy".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This climb has awkward finger jamming crux on good rock. It starts up a left-facing corner on the west face, and continues up a crack to the top.


Protection 

standard rack



Photos of Sugar Daddy Slideshow Add Photo
gettin to the business!
gettin to the business!
Becky on lead
Becky on lead
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By Drederek
Apr 14, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Very enjoyable, especially on a nice breezy day.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 7, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Seemed difficult, certainly more difficult than 9- like the previous poster noted. The crux is a single move on the first 1/3. I guess if you nail it without thinking about it or shopping for the best way to do it, it could seem easier.

That unfortunately, was not the case for me and although there were no falls...there certainly could have been and was thankful I was not leading it.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Nov 7, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Good and funky! Pro is good and sort of in the way. Pick your poison, good pro or a good pinkie lock at the crux. Eases quickly. No bolted anchor on top. Rap from M and M's Plain.

By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jan 6, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

nice for it's variety. Fun perplexing moves and pro in the middle. Climbed to the top, anchor in cracks 40' back, but you could stop at bolts of Bare Leigh Legal.