This is the obvious buttress on the north side of the road when you turn onto Sugarloaf Road. It has some decent rock, but also a lot of munge and loose rock. I have never seen anyone else climb here. There is a single known route on the southwest side of the buttress (Sugar Crack). There is also a juggy and steep boulder problem on the northeast side.
Drive west up Boulder Canyon approximately 3.8 miles from where the highway crosses Boulder Creek. Turn right on Sugarloaf Rd and park in a 1-2 car pulloff on the right side of the road about 250' from the intersection. The crag is directly across the road on the north side.
Begin on the southwest side of the buttress and climb an angling, hand crack to a small bush. At this point, the crack forms a quartz-filled groove and the pro becomes scarce. It is possible to stem left to the corner and avoid the mungy runout. Continue up to a handcrack splitting a roof and turn the roof using hand jams and face holds (crux). Continue to the top of the buttress up broken rock....[more]Browse More Classics in CO