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Sugar Crack Buttress

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Rubberneck Crack 
Sugar Crack 

Sugar Crack Buttress 

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Elevation: 6,225'
Location: 40.0046, -105.3533 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,485
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: James Beissel on May 9, 2008
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This is the obvious buttress on the north side of the road when you turn onto Sugarloaf Road. It has some decent rock, but also a lot of munge and loose rock. I have never seen anyone else climb here. There is a single known route on the southwest side of the buttress (Sugar Crack). There is also a juggy and steep boulder problem on the northeast side.


A. Rubberneck Crack, 10, 1p, 110', gear.
B. Sugar Crack, 10- PG-13, 1p, 90', gear.

Getting There 

Drive west up Boulder Canyon approximately 3.8 miles from where the highway crosses Boulder Creek. Turn right on Sugarloaf Rd and park in a 1-2 car pulloff on the right side of the road about 250' from the intersection. The crag is directly across the road on the north side.

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Sugar Crack Buttress

Sugar Crack 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13  CO : Boulder Canyon : Sugar Crack Buttress
It looks unstable, scary, and run out, but it isn't any of those. While it is not a route to push your limits on, good protection can be had the whole way and the flake is actually pretty well-attached.Scramble up some slabby junk out of the ditch along the road and to a ledge below the obvious flake. Place gear under and in the flake and pull up and into it. Continue past good stances and rests, placing sometimes hard-to-see gear in the flakes every 4-5 feet (double set of Aliens if you want ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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