This is the obvious buttress on the north side of the road when you turn onto Sugarloaf Road. It has some decent rock, but also a lot of munge and loose rock. I have never seen anyone else climb here. There is a single known route on the southwest side of the buttress (Sugar Crack). There is also a juggy and steep boulder problem on the northeast side.
Drive west up Boulder Canyon approximately 3.8 miles from where the highway crosses Boulder Creek. Turn right on Sugarloaf Rd and park in a 1-2 car pulloff on the right side of the road about 250' from the intersection. The crag is directly across the road on the north side.
It looks unstable, scary, and run out, but it isn't any of those. While it is not a route to push your limits on, good protection can be had the whole way and the flake is actually pretty well-attached.Scramble up some slabby junk out of the ditch along the road and to a ledge below the obvious flake. Place gear under and in the flake and pull up and into it. Continue past good stances and rests, placing sometimes hard-to-see gear in the flakes every 4-5 feet (double set of Aliens if you want ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO