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Sugar Crack Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Rubberneck Crack T 
Sugar Crack T 
Sugaree T 

Sugar Crack Buttress 


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Elevation: 6,225'
Location: 40.0046, -105.3533 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,735
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: James Beissel on May 9, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Sugar Rock as seen from the road slightly SW. Rubb...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the obvious buttress on the north side of the road when you turn onto Sugarloaf Road. It has some decent rock, but also a lot of munge and loose rock. I have never seen anyone else climb here. There is a single known route on the southwest side of the buttress (Sugar Crack). There is also a juggy and steep boulder problem on the northeast side.

L->R:

A. Rubberneck Crack, 10, 1p, 110', gear.
B. Sugar Crack, 10- PG-13, 1p, 90', gear.
C. Sugaree, 4, 1p, 100', gear.


Getting There 

Drive west up Boulder Canyon approximately 3.8 miles from where the highway crosses Boulder Creek. Turn right on Sugarloaf Rd and park in a 1-2 car pulloff on the right side of the road about 250' from the intersection. The crag is directly across the road on the north side.


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Sugar Crack Buttress

Sugar Crack 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13  CO : Boulder Canyon : Sugar Crack Buttress
It looks unstable, scary, and run out, but it isn't any of those. While it is not a route to push your limits on, good protection can be had the whole way and the flake is actually pretty well-attached.Scramble up some slabby junk out of the ditch along the road and to a ledge below the obvious flake. Place gear under and in the flake and pull up and into it. Continue past good stances and rests, placing sometimes hard-to-see gear in the flakes every 4-5 feet (double set of Aliens if you want ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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