Suderiferous: 5.8 variation
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Climb the large, blocky left-facing corner with a smooth face to its left (No Picnic
), to the top to reach a stance that is a bit below and slightly right of an obvious right-facing corner. Go past the corner, then climb straight up the face over a bulge (crux) to a ledge. Diagonal up and left to a small ledge and a pine tree with a fixed anchor.
The crux is strenuous in nature, but it is very brief and the protection is decent. If someone is looking for a route for a first 5.8 lead, this would be a reasonable choice.
Protection is adequate.
From: Wayne, PA
May 2, 2011
Did this last Sunday. It was actually a very fun climb. It's soft for an 8, but, the gear can be a little tricky as some of the rock is not great. That said, it's mellow and happy with a brief crux.
By Adam Marcus
From: Arlington, VA
Sep 2, 2014
I did this route by accident last Saturday, meaning to climb the regular 5.2 route. Whoops! I missed the belay station and just kept going straight up, then trending left at the Norton Smithe pin mentioned in the Grey Dick route description. The 5.8 moves felt a lot easier than many 5.6 and 5.7 routes I climbed that weekend, but I ran it out rather than stop to place pro.