Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Eavesdown Docks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alliance, The S 
Black Market Beagles S 
Browncoat S 
Bushwhacked S 
Canceled S 
Captain Hammer S 
Captain Mal S 
Captain Tight Pants S 
Companion, The S 
Damage My Calm S 
Firefly S 
Jubal S 
Oh Captain! My Captain! S 
Out of Gas S 
Out to the Black S 
Shindig S 
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 
Too Pretty to Die  S 

Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 611
Submitted By: Darren Knezek on Sep 7, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: 18 Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal 5.10a

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A harder-than-it-looks sequence off the ground to clip the second bolt, then fun, but somewhat tricky climbing to a short section of lower-angled rock. The lower-angled rock then steepens to vertical as you approach the intimidating roof. Just keep telling yourself it really is .10a as you grope for holds over the roof and maybe even catch a little air.

Location 

Climbs up through a shallow trough ten or fifteen feet left of a tree through a roof up high.

Protection 

14 bolts, ring anchors.


Photos of Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal Slideshow Add Photo
Hauling through the sequential middle section just...
Hauling through the sequential middle section just...

Comments on Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal Add Comment
Show which comments
By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Sep 12, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great climb up through the ninth bolt. At bolt 9, the rock quality gets worse and makes every move slower and more methodical up to the roof. There might be some secret beta for pulling the roof that makes it 10a but I played around up there for about 5 minutes and didn't find anything that felt easier than 10c\d. I thought this felt substantially harder than the 10b right next to it and a little harder than the 10c two routes over.
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Sep 12, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

(Cue evil chuckle from Darren...)

It really is right around .10a, but the key hold isn't immediately obvious from below and the crux is fairly sequential for a .10a.

(I didn't onsight it, which for me is unusual at this grade. I'm sure once it's all chalked up it'll be a bit more obvious.)
By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Sep 13, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Perin - I thought I could hear DK chuckling as I flailed around over that roof :)
By brentjw2
May 4, 2014

Really fun route! The route is very well protected, great bolt placement the whole way up. The anchors are directly after the roof.
By Travelingrappeler
May 16, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun start, chossy middle, perplexing top. 10a if you climb 5.12.

Also 10 bolts not 14.
By Nate Watkins
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 12, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Did this today. Pulling the roof is hard and if it wasn't for some beta from Perin's group this morning I wouldn't have gotten it right away. This is a great sustained .10a or b route, but no harder than that when you find the key crux hold.