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Farmington Crag
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Every woman has her charm. 
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Suck it Up Princess 
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Suck it Up Princess 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ryan Lauck, Erik Gillis, Spencer Parkin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: Ryan Lauck on Jun 14, 2010
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Description 

Enjoy the shade ...and stop whining about the approach.

Follows a line of good jugs and incut edges up a slightly overhanging pillar of solid quartzite.

Work your way through the techy start past the first two bolts. Hug the pillar as the grade hits the steeper crux and trust that more big holds await to help clip the third bolt. There is an intrusion of quartz near the top that looks chossy from the ground but is some of the best rock and sports cool knobs.


Location 

The first (and only at this time) bolted route on the East face of the main "house" crag/boulder. Its on the South end about 12 feet from the Southeast corner.


Protection 

3 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor at the top. Bring a stick clip or a good spotter for the first bolt if you dont feel confident at the grade.



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By Erik S. Gillis
Jun 14, 2010

nice man! ok ok i was a little whiny about the approach :P this is a cooler route than it looks at first.