Suburban Sprawl 5.10- R
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | D. Bingham, 1987 |
| Season: | Faces W/NW |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on May 4, 2007 |
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Description A good route with some good climbing, but some detractors as well. Climb up some indistinct and so-so rack with some gear placements to reach cleaner, more solid rock. This section is easy and pretty safe overall. Continue up and slightly right past a horizontal break (large cam possible) and then higher and more right towards a dark patch. A psychological crux (5.9, R) is here. Continue up and left to clip an old bolt and past the 'true crux' (anti-climactic) and on to the top of the rock...
Mostly good climbing, mostly moderate.
Location This route is on the face to the Right of Norma's Book and left of Batwings, just left of the rounded arete. Look hard to see a few bolts up there that may help you find the way.
Protection A standard light rack, but don't plan on placing too much or it. I also got a large cam in (4.5 camalot) in a horizontal as advised by the book, but I'm not sure it was worth taking. There are 2 bolts on the route- one is below the crux, the other above. The higher one seems unneeded with the easier climbing and available gear, and the lower further from the crux than I would have preferred.
| Comments on Suburban Sprawl |
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.10- R
| Two bolts. Can protect two different horizontal cracks using 3" & 1" cams the bulge (crux) is easier if you move slightly left. I'm not sure if that's cheating or not. |
By Ben Folsom
Jul 10, 2008
| This is a really nice route with a few sections where you have to make a few committing moves a little bit above your gear. Super fun. I brought a set of cams and a set of nuts and used a selection. |
By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah
Jul 12, 2012
| I think this is one of the best routes in upper 'City'. The climbing is cool. If the first bolt were below the crux moves, instead of above it, it would be very popular and take a lot of the heat off of Batwings and Delay of Game.
I like committing routes, but if you blow the hard move below the first bolt, the results would really hurt. |
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