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Subterranean Homesick Blues 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: P1: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand P2: Bob D'Antonio & Ron Olsen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,816
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 19, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Subterranean Homesick Blues. Climb the slab right...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great slab climbing on a nicely featured wall.

Pitch 1: 11b/c Climb up and over a small roof (gear) and make a weird move to the first bolt. Crank up a seam past several bolts with dicey moves. At the sixth bolt, make a hard move straight up, and then continue straight up (gear & bolts) the cool slab to a two-bolt anchor. 100 feet.

Crossing the river in high water was the crux for me.

Pitch 2: 5.12a Blonde on Blonde pitch: Bob D'Antonio & Ron Olsen: Crank up a flake and seam past two bolts, make a very hard slab move clipping and moving past the third bolt. Cool climbing past five more bolts leads to a two-bolt anchor.

Rap the route doing two-single rope rappels.

Great route that will only get better with a little more cleaning.


Location 

Start about 100 feet right of Country Club Crack at a one-bolt anchor (to keep you and the belayer out of the river). Rap from two two-bolt anchors.


Protection 

12 quickdraws plus gear to a purple (0.5) Camalot.




Photos of Subterranean Homesick Blues Slideshow Add Photo
Bob hiking back to car after first ascent.
Bob hiking back to car after first ascent.
Pitch 1 - A=anchor. Gear needed before 1st bolt and between 7 & 8.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 - A=anchor. Gear needed before 1st bolt an...
Water World and Subterranean Homesick Blues. <br /> <br />Water World: start on a boulder in the creek, step left and climb a slot to steep cracks on the right, then up a slab to the anchor. <br /> <br />Subterranean Homesick Blues: start at a belay bolt on the main wall, turn an overhang, and continue up the steep slab for two pitches.
BETA PHOTO: Water World and Subterranean Homesick Blues.

Wate...
Comments on Subterranean Homesick Blues Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 26, 2006

The 12a slab crux on the second pitch can be bypassed by traversing right, moving up to a headwall, and underclinging back left. Fun moves, but not recommended on lead. Done this way, the pitch becomes solid 5.11 with the crux at the second bolt.

Lots of great moves on this pitch, but it needs more cleaning.