|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Dan Brayack, Matt Fanning, 2008|
|Submitted By:||Jeremy Steck on Sep 12, 2010|
|Comments on Submarine||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
May 29, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strange reengineering on this one.
The route follows a natural line and weakness up the slab and trends to the right side of the arete -- yet the bolt has been moved left and the anchors have been moved away down and left as well, apparently in an attempt to force a direct finish.
Following the weakness right keeps the grade at pretty solid 12a, but with a nasty fall and difficult rope management during the cruxy finish. The direct variation feels much, much more contrived and difficult.
I'm assuming the FA did the bolt repositioning, but this would be a four star route had it not been changed.
By Dan Brayack
From: Marmet, WV
Oct 2, 2016
|Funny. I actually changed it at the suggestion of a BD athlete. It originally had no anchor, but traversed right to the anchor out right...Oh well. You win some you lose some. Either way, stick the top then clip the anchor.|