Another classic Ragged testpiece. Start at a roof immediately right of Unconquerable. Pull the roof into some tiny cracks and then climb mostly straight up. This pitch keeps coming at you and is a burly lead. The pro is all there but it's hard to hang and place it. Now that the fixed pins are gone this has become a real test of leading skills.
If you want to TR this (and Unconquerable), locate a pine tree that's about 10 - 15 feet down from the top of the cliff that marks this route and Unconquerable. There is gear near the tree to set an anchor.
Immediately right of Unconquerable Crack
Mostly medium and small.
|By Marc H|
From: Lafayette, CO
Dec 7, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
Bring a couple of hand-sized pieces. They will be the last decent piece of protection you get for the top-out.
If you're going to TR the route, try to use gear instead of the trees.
|By Rusty Reno|
Aug 10, 2009
Ages ago I failed on this route. Then Henry Barber, who was belaying me with a smile took over the lead and gave me a clinic. Magnificent, both Henry styling in the lead and the route, which is undoubtedly one of the best in CT.
|By Devin Krevetski|
From: West Woodstock, VT
Aug 18, 2010
"If you're going to TR the route, try to use gear instead of the trees."
Great advice for all of climbing in Connecticut.
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Oct 16, 2010
I took a partial ground fall on this early in my climbing career. A TCU popped out of a slot when I jumped. Whitey saved me by reeling in slack fast enough that the rope took most of the force on a small wire and I only bruised my back and didn't break it on the flat rock below.
Nov 18, 2010
Just had a really experienced friend have a red alien pull on this too. Made for a frighteningly long fall close to the block.
|By Morgan Patterson|
Sep 19, 2011
Rusty: Were there fixed pins on this route when Barber did the FA?
From: New Haven, CT
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Indeed, there are no pins on the route right now. And none are needed - there is good pro to be found all the way to the top.
A highly recommended lead - varied and technical climbing, very sustained for the grade. As mentioned in the description, pro can be strenuous to place...
Sep 6, 2012
Great climb and safe to lead. The trick to getting the gear to be bomber is to place small cams in the horizontal cracks.I Would definitely consider it a ragged mountain testpiece and a climb that is well worth working on lead.