Sub Slab 5.10b/c R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Andy Donson, Don Bushey |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Andy Donson on Apr 10, 2007 |
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description Sub Slab climbs the middle of the face left of the top pitch of Slimy Spoon. Combined with Remention, this route provides a mini-Super Slab type experience. Sub Slab starts about 20 feet up the ramp from the Slimy Spoon belay below a weakness in the middle of the roof band. Climb carefully up to the roof and stretch up to place a couple of good cams (1-1.5 inch) in an obvious, vertical slot in the roof. Swing up and right (crux) through the roof, then trend up and left on ledges (5.8 s) to the base of an incipient seam that runs up the middle of the face. Follow this (9+) to the top.
Location This climbs the face left of Slimy Spoon's top pitch.
Protection 3.5 inch down to RPs. Expect run outs above the roof but on easier climbing. There's good 3-3.5 inch cams at the base of the seam.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 13, 2012 rating: 5.9+ PG13
| My partner and I both agreed that this route should be PG/PG-13 and not R. The hard moves are protected well, and the runouts were moderate and not terribly long. We also felt it was 5.9/5.9+, but both have long arms. It may be harder for shorter climbers. It is a good route and deserves to get done. Perhaps people doing the new route 'The Dispensary' will enjoy going on upward through this. The grade is no harder. |
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