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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension 
Arcane Saw 
Bitter Route, The 
Breakfast Of Champions 
Cabana Boy 
Candy-O 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana 
Captain Crunch 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy 
Day Dream 
Dispensary, The 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation 
Flakey Floont 
Flower Quarter 
Greaser, The 
Hasting's Cutoff 
Lemon Line 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly 
Loose Lucy 
Lucid Dream 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect 
Mr. Natural 
Over 'ed Power Line 
Phee-nix 
Pickpocket 
Quantum Mechanics 
Real Men Eat Eggs 
Remention 
Rough Roof 
Roving for Love 
Schizophrenia 
Senora (??) 
Senorita 
Shadow 
Slimy Spoon, The 
Strangle Hold 
Sub Slab 
Suparete 
Super Natural 
Super Slab Direct Start 
Tiny Line 
Toys for Tots 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille 
Velvet Arete, The 
Velvet Hammer 
Vertical Smile 
Waking Sleep 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 
Zombies on the Lookout 

Sub Slab 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Andy Donson, Don Bushey
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 413
Submitted By: Andy Donson on Apr 10, 2007
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  • Description 

    Sub Slab climbs the middle of the face left of the top pitch of Slimy Spoon. Combined with Remention, this route provides a mini-Super Slab type experience.
    Sub Slab starts about 20 feet up the ramp from the Slimy Spoon belay below a weakness in the middle of the roof band. Climb carefully up to the roof and stretch up to place a couple of good cams (1-1.5 inch) in an obvious, vertical slot in the roof. Swing up and right (crux) through the roof, then trend up and left on ledges (5.8 s) to the base of an incipient seam that runs up the middle of the face. Follow this (9+) to the top.


    Location 

    This climbs the face left of Slimy Spoon's top pitch.


    Protection 

    3.5 inch down to RPs. Expect run outs above the roof but on easier climbing. There's good 3-3.5 inch cams at the base of the seam.



    Comments on Sub Slab Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 13, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

    My partner and I both agreed that this route should be PG/PG-13 and not R. The hard moves are protected well, and the runouts were moderate and not terribly long. We also felt it was 5.9/5.9+, but both have long arms. It may be harder for shorter climbers.
    It is a good route and deserves to get done. Perhaps people doing the new route 'The Dispensary' will enjoy going on upward through this. The grade is no harder.