|Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Sub Slab climbs the middle of the face left of the top pitch of Slimy Spoon. Combined with Remention, this route provides a mini-Super Slab type experience.
Sub Slab starts about 20 feet up the ramp from the Slimy Spoon belay below a weakness in the middle of the roof band. Climb carefully up to the roof and stretch up to place a couple of good cams (1-1.5 inch) in an obvious, vertical slot in the roof. Swing up and right (crux) through the roof, then trend up and left on ledges (5.8 s) to the base of an incipient seam that runs up the middle of the face. Follow this (9+) to the top.
This climbs the face left of Slimy Spoon's top pitch.
3.5 inch down to RPs. Expect run outs above the roof but on easier climbing. There's good 3-3.5 inch cams at the base of the seam.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 13, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
My partner and I both agreed that this route should be PG/PG-13 and not R. The hard moves are protected well, and the runouts were moderate and not terribly long. We also felt it was 5.9/5.9+, but both have long arms. It may be harder for shorter climbers.
It is a good route and deserves to get done. Perhaps people doing the new route 'The Dispensary' will enjoy going on upward through this. The grade is no harder.