Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Sub Slab climbs the middle of the face left of the top pitch of Slimy Spoon. Combined with Remention, this route provides a mini-Super Slab type experience. Sub Slab starts about 20 feet up the ramp from the Slimy Spoon belay below a weakness in the middle of the roof band. Climb carefully up to the roof and stretch up to place a couple of good cams (1-1.5 inch) in an obvious, vertical slot in the roof. Swing up and right (crux) through the roof, then trend up and left on ledges (5.8 s) to the base of an incipient seam that runs up the middle of the face. Follow this (9+) to the top.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 13, 2012 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a PG13
My partner and I both agreed that this route should be PG/PG-13 and not R. The hard moves are protected well, and the runouts were moderate and not terribly long. We also felt it was 5.9/5.9+, but both have long arms. It may be harder for shorter climbers. It is a good route and deserves to get done. Perhaps people doing the new route 'The Dispensary' will enjoy going on upward through this. The grade is no harder.