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The Citadel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anticipation T 
Arch Rival T 
Clem's Folly T 
Finger Breakers TR 
Finger Zinger S 
Glad We Came S 
Hercamur Snurd T 
Iron Worker T 
Little Diddle T 
Murray's Crack T 
Nose, The T 
Romper Room T 
Second Thoughts T 
Stem Cell Research T 
Styx n Stones T 
West Ridge T 
Whole Banana T 
Wish You Were Here T 

Styx n Stones 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Motes, late 1970s
Page Views: 39
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on Jun 18, 2012

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Styx n Stones: second pitch (early 1980s).

Description 

Three short pitches. The climb faces north and is a good choice for summer climbing in the Organs.

p1: Climb the steep crack (5.10-) in a corner and belay on a large ledge.

p2: Traverse left from the belay and climb a short difficult crack (the crux, 5.10). Continue higher, clip a bolt and belay next to a block above.

p3: Climb up an easy face to the top.

Location 

You need to follow the rock and walk uphill and right up the gully from "Wish You Were Here" to near the end of the gully. The lower North Face of the Citadel is now rot your right and below.

The start is a steep crack in a corner on the left side of the gully.

Protection 

Standard Organ trad rack. There is a bolt above the crux. Rap off the east side of the Citadel and walk back to the packs.


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