By David Hodges
From Parker, Colorado
Apr 1, 2007
| If I was to make the trip from the front range to LCC this coming weekend are the climbing areas in right now? The only reason I ask if because of the volume of snow out there. Would love to sample some fine Utah granite. I appreciate anyones insight. Thanks,
David | 
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By tenesmus
Apr 1, 2007
| Its perfect right now. If a snowstorm comes by it usually dries out in a day or two on the sunny side of the canyon. |
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By Duncan
From Salt Lake City
Apr 1, 2007
| Steve White wrote: Agreed. This is a great time to get out. I've noticed this year alot of the climbs that usually have wet spots are dry. North facing stuff like Pentapitch might still be a bit wet but anything on the south facing side will be great. Have fun!
Good point about the side of the mountain. The sun is a key player too, and without it if you climb higher up it can get quite chilly!
Stay south facing and you'll be ok! |
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By David Hodges
From Parker, Colorado
Apr 2, 2007
| Ok, sorry if I'm being a pain. This question is to anyone, if you had 3 days to spend in Utah and wanted to maximize climbing time where would you go. I climb sport to 11a/b and trad at 5.9. There are so many different canyons so anyone who has advice it's much appreciated. |
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By Tico
Apr 2, 2007
| Little Cottonwood has a billion trad climbs at around 5.9 ( do everything around the Gate). Big Cottonwood has a billion sport climbs at around 5.11 (do everything at the s-curves). They're about a ten minute drive from each other.
Moab's nice this time of year, it's spring and all the license plates are coming up green. But if you're coming out this week, I'd avoid the desert since it's jeep week and the place is infested. |
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By Tea
Apr 2, 2007
| In LCC...hit The Gate Butress, The Dihedrals, and the Green Adjective gully....easily a couple days worth of cragging to be had in that area, in that range...enjoy! |
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Apr 2, 2007
| Tico wrote: Little Cottonwood has a billion trad climbs at around 5.9 ( do everything around the Gate). Big Cottonwood has a billion sport climbs at around 5.11 (do everything at the s-curves).
Wow, those are some big numbers...I guess MP is pretty far behind in outlining all the routes in Utah. |
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By Duncan
From Salt Lake City
Apr 2, 2007
| Jay Knower wrote: Wow, those are some big numbers...I guess MP is pretty far behind in outlining all the routes in Utah.
Actually there are even more that aren't printed anywhere, just did 3 last Sat. I think it's not a billion, these newer ones bring the total to something like, 890 million.
grimace, just follow what Tico, and Tea said and you'll have plenty for 3 days! S-Curves in Big Cottonwood are great for sport, and short hike from parking. Try Black Monday 5.11a and Madison Avenue 5.10d. LCC has great trad and mixed routes and the Gate area should sedate any trad desires you have. |
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Apr 2, 2007
| Duncan wrote: Actually there are even more that aren't printed anywhere, just did 3 last Sat. I think it's not a billion, these newer ones bring the total to something like, 890 million.
I had heard that Utah has a lot of rock, but I had no idea. This makes the Granite State look pretty paltry in comparison. |
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By KCP
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Apr 2, 2007
| Jay Knower wrote: I had heard that Utah has a lot of rock, but I had no idea. This makes the Granite State look pretty paltry in comparison.
I wouldn't call N.H. paltry in comparison, although Salt Lake has no shortage of high quality granite. I only wish that the longer routes were a bit steeper. If you add areas like American Fork and Maple Canyon to the mix - although not granite - this area is as impressive as any in the country for high quality, easy access climbing. |
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Apr 2, 2007
| I've seen the Pipe Dream cave at Maple. That's about as steep as it gets. Yeah, Utah has some pretty good climbing, though admittedly, a comparison to NH is unfair to those of us over here, because NH is about 1/5th the size of Utah. |
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By Duncan
From Salt Lake City
Apr 2, 2007
| Ken Cangi wrote: I wouldn't call N.H. paltry in comparison, although Salt Lake has no shortage of high quality granite. I only wish that the longer routes were a bit steeper. If you add areas like American Fork and Maple Canyon to the mix - although not granite - this area is as impressive as any in the country for high quality, easy access climbing.
Agreed, a lot of slab and not enough steepness, but slab is better than nothing. I just like the fact that if I work a later shift I can climb in the morning, and be at work on time because some of the climbing is so close! |
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By KCP
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Apr 2, 2007
| Jay Knower wrote: a comparison to NH is unfair to those of us over here, because NH is about 1/5th the size of Utah.
I would have to say, although the locals here won't like it, that NH - overall - has higher quality trad routes, at least in the upper grades. The Prow is still my all-time favorite trad route in the East. The crux pitch (11d vertical stemming corner to roof) is as good as it gets.
The 13c pitch (Edge Of The World) on the upper headwall was over my head back when I lived there, but I would love to eventually get back to give it a go. I watched Scotty do the first ascent back when that grade was considered way hard. It looked like a great pitch. |
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Apr 2, 2007
| I agree about the Prow. Though the pitches are short, it is pretty sustained and the Triangle Roof is wonderful climbing.
I'm glad to hear that there's a vote in the NH column. |
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By KCP
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Apr 2, 2007
| Jay Knower wrote: I agree about the Prow. Though the pitches are short, it is pretty sustained and the Triangle Roof is wonderful climbing. I'm glad to hear that there's a vote in the NH column.
A bit short, but the route packs a lot of solid 5.11 climbing into 500'. I'll always talk up New England. That's were I was born and raised. The only thing I don't miss at all is the Black Flies. |
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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 2, 2007
| I don't think anyone would disagree that Utah s not so great for long granite trad routes.
On the other hand, moonlight buttress makes a nice hard long free climb if you are so inclined... |
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By Duncan
From Salt Lake City
Apr 2, 2007
| Andrew Gram wrote: I don't think anyone would disagree that Utah s not so great for long granite trad routes. On the other hand, moonlight buttress makes a nice hard long free climb if you are so inclined...
Oh, yeah! I love that climb, definitly one of my all-time favs! |
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By KCP
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Apr 2, 2007
| Andrew Gram wrote: I don't think anyone would disagree that Utah s not so great for long granite trad routes. On the other hand, moonlight buttress makes a nice hard long free climb if you are so inclined...
If you include Southern Utah into the mix, then Utah is hard to beat. |
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By Duncan
From Salt Lake City
Apr 3, 2007
| Ken Cangi wrote: If you include Southern Utah into the mix, then Utah is hard to beat.
Especially if you love to climb everything, from trad to sport, etc! |
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By grega
Apr 3, 2007
| Andrew Gram wrote: I don't think anyone would disagree that Utah s not so great for long granite trad routes. On the other hand, moonlight buttress makes a nice hard long free climb if you are so inclined...
Lone Peak Cirque.
Easy access: not really
Longer steeper routes: yes |
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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 3, 2007
| Lone Peak Cirque is fun, but the routes are pretty short compared to stuff in RMNP, the Tetons, Yosemite, etc. |
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By grega
Apr 3, 2007
| Andrew Gram wrote: short compared to stuff in RMNP, the Tetons, Yosemite, etc.
Oh I know. That's another reason I live here in CO now (I grew up in SLC). Besides, I'm sure the Cirque is still full of snow.
Cheers |
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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 3, 2007
| Heh - not so much this year. |
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By Buff Johnson
Apr 4, 2007
| Ken Cangi wrote: If you include Southern Utah into the mix, then Utah is hard to beat.
If you think about it, the whole WY, MT, CO, UT, AZ, NM, NV (i.e. the Rky Mtn to Desert SW) area is world class. |
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By Duncan
From Salt Lake City
Apr 4, 2007
| Mark Nelson wrote: If you think about it, the whole WY, MT, CO, UT, AZ, NM, NV (i.e. the Rky Mtn to Desert SW) area is world class.
Man I love the west! |
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