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Stupid Human Trick 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 374
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Apr 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Red - Little Green Apples.
Blue - My Big Red Catch...

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Description 

The name says it all. This is the broken arete 15' right of Daddy Dwarf. Starting directly below this feature is a reachy crux boulder problem (B5.10). If you're smart, you'll crank the problem, step left, and scramble off. If you're like me, you keep going and wind up on top (B5.8). The boulder problem is worthwhile, but the landing is broken and worth a big crash pad if you expect to fall off. Above the start, don't fall.


Protection 

A crash pad and a good reason for living.



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By George Bracksieck
Dec 28, 2013

Toproping this is easy from the Gru anchor. I think the start is 5.9 and is reaches at a horizontal crack at about 11 feet. Some gear placements (tiny cams and maybe a #2 Camalot) are possible in the horizontal. From the horizontal, make a long crank to a jug (5.8). Continue up easier moves to the summit.