A newer route, still some loose rock on this one. From the big split tree hop up on the rock and head right-ish up the slab past a few good huecos and some awkward moves. The route steepens considerably towards the top to a decent finish....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Regarding the traverse around the rock pool to gain access to the Stumbling Blocks area, there used to be a really nice little nubbin for your feet on the step across move towards the end of the traverse...
Makes the step across a bit more interesting, especially when the water is particularly dank (which is nearly always) so, word to the wise I guess. Don't think this single move warrants a grade change for the traverse, but it does indeed spice things up a little.
Hikers, river swimmers, and other folks pass through the traverse every day. Its one-way only, and it only takes one ameteurish person to clog the route. With crowds, you can end up waiting half an hour to cross on a sunny weekend. A great alternative, depending on your gear situation, is to come prepared to swim around.
Swim? With climbing gear? In that water? Brilliant.
It's possible to go around high on the right of the pond as well, though I've rarely had serious delays on the normal traverse. And this isn't the '5.5 traverse', that's the one by Ghetto Wall, this is more like 4th class.
NEW ROUTES near Guerrilla Drilla- Just left of The Third Degree (shares start?) is a 5.10+/.11a looking route to new anchors. Anyone have any info? Name?
ALSO - With Guerrilla Drilla at you back, by the tree there is a 5.6 4 bolt route on the right of this rock, and down below (steep start) there is a 9 bolt 5.9+ route that goes up to the roof by the tree and then up the arete (just left of the new 5.6). Can anyone pass on some info? Names? Confirm ratings?
ALSO on right side of Mt. Gorgeous gully, below Toddler Terrace there are two new long slab routes (both around 5.7+) with 7bolts and 6 bolts (l to r). Info please... Thanks!
The route left of third degree has been in for a while now (at least two or three years from what I recall). I'd rate that route at 5.10d a bit height dependent -make sure to not pull on those blocks marked with the X around the 4th bolt. Other than that, I think it is a quality climb with fun moves for the grade (of course, Mr. Big is a 5.10d also and is much harder than this route).
Visited the area for the first time yesterday, using the MP iphone app, and it was still very hard to determine which route was which. Even other climbers who claimed to climb there often weren't really sure what they were climbing.
Given the way people reference Guerilla Drilla and Chopping Block, some better descriptions of these route locations and some quality beta photos would be high-value, if any locals could provide for the community. Thanks!
I don't have any pics but I have climbed there a lot. What kind of beta are you looking for? This may help a bit, Moonshiner is the route that starts by main tree after the short traverse. Just to the left of that is Guerilla Drilla, to the right around the corner of Moonshiner is Chopping Block 5.8. If you go off these routes and and the directions on this site you should be good. If you have any other questions just ask or pm me.
Anyone know the ratings on the boulder problems in the cave area of the stumbling blocks? these are the problems located at creek level under the boulder used when scrambling over to get to the actual routes in the Stumbling Blocks. I heard a couple were v7 and the harder one was something like an 11?
Anyone know the names/ratings of the two climbs on the left wall in the shade hiking uphill from Monkey Mayhem? The first one had 3 bolts - start was pumpy but very mellow up higher. The second one to the right had 4 or 5 bolts and ended at the same anchor - more difficult moves down low but also mellowed out up higher. Thanks!
Daniel....the 1st route is "K-2" (5.9) 4 bolts, while the 2nd route (uphill) is "Born on the 4th of July" (5.8) 5 bolts. Both routes share an anchor. Both have descriptions posted at the Mt. Gorgeous area.