By Tyler N From Salt Lake City, Utah Jul 8, 2012
| I've been bouldering for a few weeks and doing the occasional sport climbing, and I'm stuck at about the V2 level. I feel like I just can't get the dyno moves to necessary holds and I think a big part of it might be shoddy footwork, but I'm not quite sure what to change. Tips on breaking through my plateau? |  FLAG |
By Ty Morrison-Heath From Bozeman, MT Jul 8, 2012
| Climbing for just a few weeks? Keep at it and focus on climbing with silent feet and accuracy from all parts of your body. Think about the route before you leave the ground as well. |  FLAG |
By tenpins Jul 8, 2012
| Ive been stuck on V2 for....15 years. Keep at it |  FLAG |
By Carl Sherven From Madison, WI Jul 8, 2012
| It took me several months to get to V2, and a lot longer to get comfortably past it. You're doing fine. Also, don't burn yourself by just looking for harder and harder grades; it's a good way to get frustrated once your progress begins to plateau. Enjoy the ride. I still enjoy climbing easy stuff just as much as things at my limit, just in a different way. |  FLAG |
By Ryan Nevius From San Luis Obispo, CA Jul 8, 2012
| Tyler PC wrote: ...I think a big part of it might be shoddy footwork, but I'm not quite sure what to change. Sounds like you do know what to change...your footwork. Practice footwork on routes below your limit. Place your foot, and once it hits the hold, use it without readjusting. Really concentrate on precision and balance. When moving to the next hold, really concentrate on making upward progress with your feet. It's also sometimes useful to get on some slabby boulder problems that you can do without your hands. There are plenty of other things you can do to work on technique, but this is at least a start. |  FLAG |
By s.price From PS,CO Jul 8, 2012
| Stop looking at numbers and climb what looks cool to you. That will help with any mental issues. So many people create plateaus in their head. When I stopped looking at numbers and just bouldered I went from V-4 to v-7 in a few months with out even knowing it. Enjoying the moment is more important than any grade. I would touch on footwork but it has already been said. |  FLAG |
By JasonT Jul 9, 2012
| Quit bouldering and climb trad. And then talk about how much bouldering sucks on MP.com. |  FLAG |
By Rob Gordon From Hollywood, CA Jul 9, 2012
| It's probably the fact that you think "dyno moves" are going to help you. When I used to climb in the gym a lot and do a lot of pullups I was stuck at V2 too. Try to climb static and outside as much as possible. Your technique will get better and as your hands get stronger you will probably progress fairly quickly. There's all sorts of advice that will help you get better: stay close to the rock by opening your hips or flagging and drop kneeing, realize that you really have to crimp shitty holds, toe down with your big toe primarily unless you are flagging or heel hooking, keep your arms straight or relaxed till the moment of pull, etc... But I think in general it is just good to remember that you don't need to be a beast, you just need to have good contact strength, core, and technique. (now if you are talking about pushing into the V8 range, you have to do that AND be a beast. And not fat.) |  FLAG |
By Joe_Re From Topsfield, MA Jul 10, 2012
| You have been bouldering for a few weeks and are at v2. Nothin wrong there. I climbed v2ish for a few years. Over the winter I would go to the gym once a week and climb till I couldn't, had to leave due to "responsabilities", or the gym closing, usually 4-6 hours. I didn't focus on grades so much as climbing what seemed fun to me, and I would always work on stuff that was way above me. I shot up three grades by mid/late spring. I still have a hard time on really overhung stuff, but that isn't what I find fun anyway. I also rest a bit or call it quits for the day if something hurts that isn't supposed to, you'll know it when it happens, and it will. In the end I was climbing in the gym and grades don't mean shit cause setters grade it what they think it is. Climb on, Joe. |  FLAG |
By Jeremy Hand Jul 10, 2012
| My gosh, MP is full of a bunch of weak nancies. I'd quit while you're ahead IMHO. You're just wasting your time and greasing up holds with your overchalk using self. Your lack of skill is truly an inconvenience to everyone else at the crag/boulderfield and it would be greatly appreciated if you'd just pick up swimming or something. P.S. If you decide to continue climbing climb with wooden clogs - the rubber from climbing shoes (and surely your incompetant footwork) makes the rocks look ugly and climbing barefoot is just gonna make the rock slimy and slick. P.S. Welcome to Mountain Project. Please note that the above is the typical banter of the community so please disregard any and all statements that aren't supportive or are contradictory. I personally believe that the majority of the population, that is in decent shape, has the ability to climb v3/4 without focusing on strength training. The key right now is to focus on your technique and footwork. Do not expel too much energy with each move, do not overgrip, and remember to BREATHE! Climb on anything and everything, just always be safe and don't push your physical ability too hard, too fast or you may end up injured. Good luck! |  FLAG |
By Jake Jones From The Eastern Flatlands Jul 10, 2012
| What most people don't realize when they first start bouldering is that it is hard. Check out a V scale in conjuction with a YDS scale. You'll find that even the lower section of the V scale is probably correlative with cruxes that you can't do or are only starting to do on roped routes. Stick with it. You haven't been doing it long enough to have hit a plateau yet (provided that you have only been doing it for a few weeks). It takes a while to make body positioning, gripping holds, and footwork to become non-intuitive. It takes even longer for tendons and muscles to become accustomed to the stresses that bouldering puts on them; years sometimes. Don't overdo it. You can injure yourself bouldering (arguably) worse and quicker than with other disciplines of climbing. Hang in there. |  FLAG |
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