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Big Toe to Great Chimney
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barn Dance TR 
Coup de Gras T,TR 
Double Jeopardy T,TR 
Grand Illusion T,TR 
Homo Erectus T 
Icarus TR 
Impervious Horror TR 
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 
Mr. Lucky TR 
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 
Stuck Knee T,TR 

Stuck Knee 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,305
Submitted By: John W. Knoernschild on Jul 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Vinny, with pro.

Description 

Start in the north inside corner of the recessed section, climb 15 feet to the first ledge. Then up a crack to the base of a narrow chimney. Climb Chimney (crux) to the ledge above. Pull up over the overhanging ledge and finish in 12 foot inside corner

Location 

Right near Great Chimney. Just to the right of Double Jeopardy.

Protection 

standard rack


Photos of Stuck Knee Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Vinny
Vinny
Rock Climbing Photo: Vinny, photo by Andrew Burr.
Vinny, photo by Andrew Burr.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Sohasky
Mike Sohasky
Rock Climbing Photo: Reinke demonstrating his wide crack technique.
Reinke demonstrating his wide crack technique.
Rock Climbing Photo: Vinny, photo by Andrew Burr.
Vinny, photo by Andrew Burr.
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo 2 of Doug leading Stuck Knee 6-16-13.
Photo 2 of Doug leading Stuck Knee 6-16-13.
Rock Climbing Photo: Reinke hot dogging. This is before he realized his...
Reinke hot dogging. This is before he realized his...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stuck Knee 5.7
BETA PHOTO: Stuck Knee 5.7
Rock Climbing Photo: Burt leads "Stuck Knee"
Burt leads "Stuck Knee"
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan on stuck knee. Photo: Peter Beck
Ryan on stuck knee. Photo: Peter Beck
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo 1 of Doug leading Stuck Knee 6-16-13.
Photo 1 of Doug leading Stuck Knee 6-16-13.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan on stuck knee.
Ryan on stuck knee.
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo 3 Doug leading Stuck Knee 6-16-13.
Photo 3 Doug leading Stuck Knee 6-16-13.

Comments on Stuck Knee Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bob Kryzer
From: Minnesota
Jan 10, 2009

I was belaying someone on this route for there first trad lead and well... just like the name states, his knee got stuck in the large crack on top of the route. He was struggling for a good 5 minutes trying to get it out. I felt rather sorry for the guy.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 10, 2009

That story made me laugh my ass of Bob. Thx for sharing.
By pwags
Oct 21, 2009

This route is a very good lead, worthy of 3 stars IMO. A #5 camalot or friend is greatly appreciated for the last 15 feet.

Wags
By Tradoholic
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Anyone ever attempt the face to the left of this?
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Jun 28, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

good sustained offwidth climbing..#5 and 4.5 camalots
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 18, 2013

Short video of Doug Hemken leading the final little upper corner of Stuck Knee route West Bluff 6-16-13.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 14, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I can't believe I never climbed this before. A great lead for the grade!

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