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 ADVANCED
Mary's Bust - main buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broadmoor, The S 
Brown Palace, The S 
Convolution S 
Deceiver S 
Disneyland T,S 
Dynamite S 
Fool Me Twice T,S 
Frisky Lady S 
Just in Time S 
Lie Detector S 
Mary's Jugs S 
Mary's Tricks S 
Maternal Damnation S 
New Direction T 
Out Of Time S 
Proud Mary S 
Stuck In Time S 
There's Something About Mary T,S 
Violet Blue S 
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Stuck In Time 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Snively, Hill, Gillett, Wright, Zimmerman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 921
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 17, 2006

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Description 

SIT climbed as a much better route than one might have imagined from reading the BG guide to Estes Park Valley. A single bolt above the belay at the top of P1 beckoned, and a second pitch was added to SIT in the Spring of 2006. Presently P1 goes at 5.9 as described by BG. P2 comes in as very continuous 5.11. Both remind me of Jug Dome and climb on the same kind of BTC granite. P2 has very thin hands and thin footwork. The rock looks as though it should be friable, but it climbs as very solid stone. The jugs on P1, if anything, just seemed a bit rough - sometimes tough for the hands but great for the feet. P1, 85 feet, 5.9. P2, 90 feet, 5.11.

Location 

SIT starts behind the left margin of a large flake growing beside the trail. Find a rough, left-facing, corner system with a bolt 8 feet up.

Protection 

A dozen draws will get both pitches. A 60 meter rope is required for P2.


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By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 5, 2009

Was wondering about the route just left of this, goes for 10 or so bolts over a couple little bulges, it seemed 5.11 to me. Anybody know?
By timoteo
Sep 5, 2009

Took a vise-grips and crow-bar to the drill-bit that was sticking out 2" from an old anchor bolt-hole at the top of P1 today, and it reluctantly came out. It was a 3/8" Hilti bit, buried 4 and 3/4" deep! No wonder that hazardous eyesore was still there. Tried to pry out the other old anchor bolt/nut, but no go so pounded it in flush (minus the nut). There is still one old rusty bolt with hanger in the vicinity, could not turn the bolt head at all so left it there. If anyone with some epoxy wants to finish off the clean-up, cool. There was another empty hole there too, maybe 1/2" diameter. Happy climbing on Mary's Bust!
By Bernard Gillett
Sep 5, 2009

Guess we better rename the route: "No Longer Stuck In Time" (!). The stuck bit gave rise to the name of the route back in 1995: Douglas' drill ran out of juice just as the hole was nearing completion, and he couldn't back the bit out (as I recall, it was already binding in the hole a little due to a worn bit, and then it wouldn't come back out as the battery died). I think he may have returned at a later date with a recharged drill in an attempt to remove it, but the bit would not budge.

Tim, you should go over to Snively's house and show up with his 14 year old bit just for kicks. Nice job getting it out. Say hi to Douglas from me. Or, hand the bit off to me, and I'll pay the master a visit (Douglas very kindly took me under his wings when I was a youngster, and coached me through many a good climb -- I've got nothing but fond memories of those carefree days...).
By timoteo
Sep 6, 2009

I was hoping you would shed some historical light on this, Bernard- thanks. I will indeed return the bit to the Snive, and I'll have to ask him if he was planning on placing a 5" bolt? I know MB had a reputation for chossy rock for a LONG time, but come on.... Anyway- have fun out there.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I broke one of the key mica holds around the 5th bolt on P2. It might be a little harder now.