Stuck In Another Dimension (5.11a). New River Gorg...
Burly, committing start (crux 1, w/PG-13 pro), cruise crack, power directly through roof/flare (crux 2), finish. Be ready to jam!...mostly hands, some fingers. Also, a few nicely-placed, positive edges. Good rests when needed.
From Junkyard Wall proper, walk left past New River Gunks, Team Jesus, The Entertainer. Follow trail around and past two corners. Looking right, spot an intimidating crack with roof on the right-side of the face. The route begins directly below (in flaring cave).
Besides the exposed start, pro is good most of the way. Back-up when preparing to surmount the roof. Small-med-large cams...doubled in several sizes (easily determined from ground view). A few runners and/or draws to alleviate rope drag. Anchors up and left.
I wanted to puke when I got down from this one. Great route though. Really lives up to its name.
Finally sent this thing this weekend.
Don't need anything bigger than a #3 for the bottom (#4 if you're shorter maybe). A single rack will get you up it just fine, I wound up slamming a #1 high and deep at the offwidth section towards the top, it's out of the way unlike placing a bigger cam there.
And FWIW, this route is not PG13, you can get gear everywhere you need it. Hell, you can tape a cam to a stick and shove it high to protect the awkwardness at the bottom if you're really that worried about it.
Got the on-sight last week. Woo-Hoo!!! Over shadows all the other 5.11's I got that week. This is an amazing route!!! Committing and very difficult moves open this stupendous adventure. A good rest below the final roof made the on-sight possible (for me that is). I used a #4 camelot in the beginning, then removed it as I passed it (using a #3 a few feet above) and re-used the #4 on the 2nd crux at the roof.
Great route! The crux will vary based on your personal skill set - I found transitioning into the chimney to be far more difficult than the offwidth or the roof. Anyway, it protects way better than it looks up top - Sam's beta for the #1 Camalot after you pull out of the roof is spot on. Have some faith and get out there!