Stuck a Flute in My 5.10-
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | T. Phillips L. Douglas |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Aug 22, 2005 |
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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
Little Cottonwood Access Update
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is the 5th pitch variation on Stifflers Mom. Start to the left of the anchor and climb straight up.
If you don't get this name rent American Pie. Named so because after putting Stifflers Mom in from the ground up we rap bolted this line.
Protection About 9 bolts. I forget.
Location This is the 5th pitch variation of Stifflers Mom, see topo
| Comments on Stuck a Flute in My |
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By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Oct 21, 2007
rating: 5.10b
| Sweet!! Cool line, Bold moves up perfect granite. |
By Shaft
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c
| Varied, great climbing with slab being the main theme.
Felt like at least solid 5.10 on a warm and humid September day. I counted 12 bolts. |
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 15, 2009
rating: 5.10
| This is a really good variation to pitch 5, and it feels more direct than the "original" way. Surprisingly, it had some of the same kinds of moves as the "original" way too. Just a bit easier.. Also, that 3rd bolt is right where it needs to be. You just can't see it from the belay. |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 19, 2012
rating: 5.10
| Back-clean the 1st bolt and clip the 3rd or 4th long (can't remember, it will be obvious).
Great moves, felt like a baby version of the regular route, the corner is a bit easier, bit shorter, bit more acute and easier to work with. |
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