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Wheeler Gorge
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Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 
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Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, 1992
Page Views: 1,000
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 22, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Marisa Fienup passes the fourth bolt on Stuart's R...

Description 

Fun climb on excellent rock. Not nearly as sustained as Danger Boy.

Start with a series of fun moves on the right side of a steep arete (5.9). Avoid stepping left into the dirty corner for as long as possible. After gaining a large ledge, easy climbing follows a series of broken features to the crux.

The one-move crux is pulling straight up over a small roof (5.11a, only 5.10d for the over six-foot crowd). Take the time to find the positive crimp for your right hand before pulling. Stepping right or left to avoid the steepest line drops the grade to as low as 5.9.


Protection 

7 bolts to chains.

The crux is very well protected.



Comments on Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 22, 2006

The Edwards guide book refers to a 5.9 version that stays left in the dirty corner to avoid the roof. This is not recommended.

This corner is filled with loose rock, and clipping the top 2 bolts is awkward and difficult.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 24, 2009

Originally listed as 5.9, with an 11b variation that stays right of the bolts through the roof and face.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 16, 2010

A supremely better line than "escaping" in to the mungy corner left of the arete. Please, take my advice and stay right. To be sure, the climbing is harder, but it is also more elegant and rewarding. The corner is filthy and undignified. The crux at the roof clocks in around 5.11a/b. Then it's over; short and decidedly sweet.

One variation is to climb Danger Boy to the ledge, then traverse left and up (slightly runout) and surmount the roof of Stu Boy. It's super fun, and you get more 5.11 climbing in than on the original Danger Boy.

By Andrew McMullen
Oct 9, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Do this climb! Stay right of the roof or pull directly...the most fulfilling move of the climb is clipping the bolt above the roof from the crimp. So good!

By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
May 5, 2013

This one is great. The moves up to and off of the right-hand crimp, over the roof....awesome!