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The second highest non-volcanic mountain in Washington state, located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area. The North Ridge climb on Mt. Suart is one of the 50 North American Classic Climbs. Very beautiful mountain with high relative elevation of 5,335ft and serious approaches. The easiest way to get to the top (and off the mountain) is from the south via the Cascadian Couloir. The nearby Ingalls Peak, which is to the west of Mt. Stuart has some interesting climbing as well.
To approach Mt. Stuart from the south, take 970 from Cle Elum for about 11 miles and turn left into Teanaway Road. After about 14 miles Teanaway Road splits into North and West Fork Teanaway. Take the North Fork Teanaway Road to the trailhead parking lot at its end. Hike up Ingalls Way trail. At the second junction at 5600', take Longs Pass trail for Cascadian Couloir, or continue on Ingalls Way for Ingalls Lake, Mt. Stuart's West and North Ridges and go over Ingalls Pass.
12 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt Stuart :
Sherpa Glacier 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow Snow, 2800'
Ingalls Peak, South Ridge 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
West Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Grade III
Ingalls Peak, East Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 6 pitches, 900'
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 18 pitches, 1200'
The Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 20 pitches, 2000'
Gorillas in the Mist 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Easy Snow Trad, Snow, 9 pitches, 1000'
Girth Pillar 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI2 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, 9415'
Featured Route For Mt Stuart
Gorillas in the Mist 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Easy Snow WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Mt Stuart
P1 - 5.10+ or 5.11-Locate obvious hand and finger crack/splitter. A small ledge exists, maybe 15-25 feet above the snow or talus. Follow splitter to ledge, mantle, move right up yellow corner/chimney, and belay.P2 - 5.9 Move left, up hanging corner, around an arete, up another hanging corner, left around another arete, and hand traverse left to bolted belay ledge.p3 - 5.10+Climb face holds up and left to 4" crack and slung flake/horn near large orange roofs. Follow diagonal cracks up and right t...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
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