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Mt Stuart

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cascadian Couloir 
Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme, The T 
Girth Pillar 
Gorillas in the Mist T 
Ice Cliff Glacier 
Sherpa Glacier 
South Headwall T 
Stuart Glacier Couloir T 
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme T 
West Ridge T 

Mt Stuart  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,415'
Location: 47.4773, -120.9022 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 82,277
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Jul 20, 2007

55° | 43°

57° | 40°

55° | 42°

56° | 41°

50° | 42°

48° | 41°
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BETA PHOTO: Western slopes of Mount Stuart from Ingalls lake. ...


The second highest non-volcanic mountain in Washington state, located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area. The North Ridge climb on Mt. Suart is one of the 50 North American Classic Climbs. Very beautiful mountain with high relative elevation of 5,335ft and serious approaches. The easiest way to get to the top (and off the mountain) is from the south via the Cascadian Couloir. The nearby Ingalls Peak, which is to the west of Mt. Stuart has some interesting climbing as well.

Getting There 

To approach Mt. Stuart from the south, take 970 from Cle Elum for about 11 miles and turn left into Teanaway Road. After about 14 miles Teanaway Road splits into North and West Fork Teanaway. Take the North Fork Teanaway Road to the trailhead parking lot at its end. Hike up Ingalls Way trail. At the second junction at 5600', take Longs Pass trail for Cascadian Couloir, or continue on Ingalls Way for Ingalls Lake, Mt. Stuart's West and North Ridges and go over Ingalls Pass.

For West and North Ridge, traverse Ingalls Lake in its west side, drop down to the meadows and ascent the faint trail onto Stuart Pass. From here find a way through talus to the shoulder below West Ridge and continue to Goat Pass.

Climbing Season

Weather station 20.3 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt Stuart :
Stuart Glacier Couloir   WI2 M5     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 6 pitches, 1700'   
Ice Cliff Glacier   AI2-3 Steep Snow     Ice, Snow, 2000'   
Sherpa Glacier   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow     Snow, 2800'   
West Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Grade III   
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 18 pitches, 1200'   
The Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 20 pitches, 2000'   
Gorillas in the Mist   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Easy Snow     Trad, Snow, 9 pitches, 1000'   
Girth Pillar   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI2 Steep Snow     Ice, Snow, 9415'   
Browse More Classics in Mt Stuart

Featured Route For Mt Stuart
Stuart Peak from the north.  Stuart Glacier Couloi...

Stuart Glacier Couloir WI2 M5  WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : Mt Stuart
ConditionsThis route is subject to changing conditions. The ice section could be snow and thin ice or just nice thick ice. The ridge could be covered in 2 feet of rime ice and snow or it could be mostly dry. Obviously the time of year as well as the snow pack and current temperatures will change the nature of the route significantly. In early season expect winter conditions with freezing temperatures, wind, and lots of snow and ice. Route finding can be very difficult when you can't ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Mt Stuart Slideshow Add Photo
Mount Stuart (behind) and Colchuck Peak from the s...
Mount Stuart (behind) and Colchuck Peak from the s...
little panorama from the top
little panorama from the top
A frozen Ingalls Lake with Mt. Stuart in the backg...
A frozen Ingalls Lake with Mt. Stuart in the backg...
Ingalls Peak from Ingalls Lake trail.
Ingalls Peak from Ingalls Lake trail.
Mount Stuart from the south. From Ingalls Pass.
BETA PHOTO: Mount Stuart from the south. From Ingalls Pass.
Ingalls basin near Mt. Stuart
Ingalls basin near Mt. Stuart
South Face from Ingalls lake
South Face from Ingalls lake
Sunrise from Goat Pass
Sunrise from Goat Pass

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