|Type: ||Aid, 2 pitches, 120', Grade II|
|FA: ||Steve "Crusher' Bartlett, Strappo Hughes|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||777|
|Submitted By: ||Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Apr 27, 2004|
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Strappo following and cleaning during the first as...
The tower is located a half-mile south of Planet X, near the Viewfinder Towers, and a few miles north of Hanksville, just east of Highway 24. At the south end of the cliff-band behind Planet X, hike a couple hundred yards east under the cliffs, and the tower is pretty obvious. A solid one-star choss classic.
Career Opportunities 115', 5.9R, A3Steve "Crusher' Bartlett, Strappo Hughes, 4/27/2004 Our route starts from the saddle under the east side of the tower. It ascends the main central crack system, with a deviation to avoid a potentially detachable car-sized block.We found the climb more challenging than it appeared. The cracks are mostly flared and tight. A bouldery start (spot?) leads to a precarious pin placement, followed by devious and varied aiding.
1. Teeter up a 5.9 sandy slab and place a pin when you can (there are excellent opportunities for careering off these first moves). Aid up for twenty feet until under a badly parked Cadillac. Veer left and up here, then angle back right until you rejoin the main central crack system safely above the Cadillac. (It looks much easier to go direct up the left side of this car, but we were not convinced it would stay put). Continue up the main crack (easier) to a final mantel (best to not have too much rope drag) onto the crusty ledge just below the summit blob. Belay here from two bolts. Both bolts are pretty good; one is 1/2", the other 3/8", both are four inches long. 100', 5.9R, A3.2. Kick steps around the west side, and onto the summit. 15', 5.4.
Gear: 6 Birdbeaks, 4 Toucans, 3 Bugaboos/KBs, 4 LAs, Selection of nuts from RPs to 1-inch. Three each cam from Green Alien (~1/2") to 3.0-inch. One each cam 3.5-inch to #5 Camalot
Strappo bouldering out the start of the route on
Strummer, viewed from the west
|By James Garrett|
Jun 13, 2010
The Hanksville locals call this the Crooked Penis.
|By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett|
Dec 6, 2010
If I'd known that, mebbe we'd have been tempted to call the route Choad Rage....
|By Tyson Taylor|
Mar 18, 2012
I thought the "meat log" was the crooked penis, it's much more phallic in my opinion but a little tucked away in back. I guess I've been mistaken.