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Strong bolts don't always make good anchors!!
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By Craig Childre
From Lubbock, Texas
Nov 13, 2013
Potrero Mexico, Sport Climbing Mecca.

My 2 cents. The inline anchor reduces the overall load on the anchor itself, as it would split the load, (say 500lb), between the two anchors (250lb/per).

Setting the anchor where the rope makes 45 degree bends, the 500lb of force on the rope, both anchor points will see a 500lb load, effectively doubling the load on the anchor.

Rapping doesn't generate the very much in the way of shock loads usually, but in a TR situation it is more likely, though can be avoided with a proper belay free of slack.


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