Strone Crag Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Northeast Face of Strone Crag: Rear-View Mirrors ...
Strone Crag is the large, mostly north-facing wall between Challenge Buttress to the east and the Narcolepsy area to the west. As far as I can tell, at least up until 1979, when John Gottman published his guide Wasatch Quartzite, the crag was apparently known only as the Standard Ridge, after the long moderate climb that catches the top of the cliff from its lowest point, across the talus field from the West Face of Challenge Buttress. (Standard Ridge is posted on a different page, as if it is a separate crag; I suggest that we use the name Standard Ridge to refer only to the route, and move it under Strone Crag, as its eastern- or left-most route.)
According to Stuart Ruckman, Dana Hauser gave Strone Crag its name, presumably around 1987, when Dana, along with Jim Hall and IME co-owner Scott Carson, put up Le Rap et Tap, one of the best 5.11s in BCC. Strone is Scottish Gaelic for nose, apparently in reference to the huge roofband in the center of the crag, bracketed by Wealth of Nations and Space Cadet on the left margin of the roofband and Orbital Decay and Cat-O-Nine-Tails on the right margin.
The left side of the crag, between Standard Ridge and Space Cadet, comes into the sun mid-morning and into the shade mid-afternoon. The right side of the crag, between Orbital Decay and Starstruck, stays in the shade until mid-afternoon. Consequently, its possible to climb at the crag throughout the entire climbing season.
Although a large part of the crag is not visually appealing, it actually climbs quite well, but it is BCC quartzite, so expect the climbing generally not to be continuous and to have some occasional, standard Cottonwood quartzite funk. Except maybe for those climbing mid-12 and above, it is well worth a visit for at least a half a day, regardless of your preferred grade, although pure sport climbers likely will be disappointed because many of the routes require at least a few cams. All routes can be descended with a single 60m, typically from chain anchors or Metolius rap anchors. A 70m rope is more convenient, however, to get off Kiss the Sky, Old Habits, Mad Calf, Cost of Business, Starstruck, Cersei, and Tyrion. For these routes, a 70m rope allows one to avoid a hanging rappel station (the hanging belay of Mad Calf) or an extra rappel (from the top of the first pitch of Cersei).
Aerial overview here.
The approach to all the routes is from Challenge Buttress. From the road, walk the well-trod Challenge Buttress trail to where it splits, then take the path to the right (the trail left goes to Challenges East Face). After 40 or so feet, the trail splits again; stay to the right (going left leads to Challenges North and West Faces). For all routes except Standard Ridge, continue along this trail for maybe 200 feet to its end at the right (west) side of a scree and boulder gully, where a steeper trail can be gained that ascends the right margin of the gully. The trail is easily followed, and soon reaches the right-end of the ledge system from which all the routes start except for Standard Ridge. This may sound complicated, but it isnt; itll take about ten minutes to get from the road to Starstruck, the first route encountered on the ledge system that is, unless youre a flatlander.
There is a different description in the Ruckmans guide, but that is outdated and the approach described here is far better.
[Page updated Sept. 12, 2013.]
Climbing Season For the Big Cottonwood Canyon area.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
22 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Strone Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Strone Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Strone Crag:
Firefly 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Starstruck 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Minotaur 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Kiss the Sky 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Nimbus 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Strone Crag
BETA PHOTO: Firefly (blue) Routes branching off Firefly: God...
BETA PHOTO: Northwest face, select routes: Orbital Decay - r...
Another view of the Northwest Face, showing Kiss t...
BETA PHOTO: Photodiagram of Strone Crag and vicinity showing t...
BETA PHOTO: Far-right side of the northwest face of Strone Cra...
BETA PHOTO: The northwest face of Strone Crag. Starstuck is m...
BETA PHOTO: Strone Crag North Face
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 10, 2011
We hiked way the hell up the loose gully between the Strone Crag and Challenge Buttress before we realized the right turn is almost immediately after passing Hollow Man before any rock is encountered on the right.
May 3, 2013
You want to know how to get there? Read the second paragraph of John S.' comment. Seriously, that description is perfect and easy to follow, thank you sir!
Jul 9, 2013
I vote this crag gets renamed to "Steiger Crag".