Strone Crag is the large, mostly north-facing wall between Challenge Buttress to the east and the Narcolepsy area to the west. As far as I can tell, at least up until 1979, when John Gottman published his guide “Wasatch Quartzite,” the crag was apparently known only as the “Standard Ridge,” after the long moderate climb that catches the top of the cliff from its lowest point, across the talus field from the West Face of Challenge Buttress. (Standard Ridge is posted on a different page, as if it is a separate crag; I suggest that we use the name “Standard Ridge” to refer only to the route, and move it under Strone Crag, as its eastern- or left-most route.)
According to Stuart Ruckman, Dana Hauser gave Strone Crag its name, presumably around 1987, when Dana, along with Jim Hall and IME co-owner Scott Carson, put up Le Rap et Tap, one of the best 5.11s in BCC. Strone is Scottish Gaelic for nose, apparently in reference to the huge roofband in the center of the crag, bracketed by Wealth of Nations and Space Cadet on the left margin of the roofband and Orbital Decay on the right margin.
The left side of the crag, between Standard Ridge and Space Cadet, comes into the sun mid-morning and into the shade mid-afternoon. The right side of the crag, between Orbital Decay and Starstruck, stays in the shade until mid-afternoon. Consequently, it’s possible to climb at the crag throughout the entire climbing season.
Although a large part of the crag is not visually appealing, it actually climbs quite well, but it is BCC quartzite, so expect the climbing generally not to be continuous and to have some occasional, standard Cottonwood quartzite funk. Except maybe for those climbing mid-12 above, it is well worth a visit for at least a half a day, regardless of your preferred grade, although pure sport climbers likely will be disappointed because many of the routes require at least a few cams. All routes except for Imp and Satyr can be descended with a single 60m, typically from chain anchors or Metolius rap anchors. Imp and Satyr require a 70m rope, unless the last pitch of Starstruck is used to finish and the descent for that route is used.
Aerial overview here.
The approach to all the routes is from Challenge Buttress. From the road, walk the well-trod Challenge Buttress trail to where it splits, then take the path to the right (the trail left goes to Challenge’s East Face). After 40 or so feet, the trail splits again; stay to the right (going left leads to Challenge’s North and West Faces). For all routes except the Standard Ridge, continue along this trail for maybe 200 feet to its end at a scree and boulder gully, where a steeper trail can be gained that ascends the right-side of the gully. The trail is easily followed, and soon reaches the right-end of the ledge system from which all the routes start except for Standard Ridge. The start of the ledge system was cairned as of this writing. This may sound complicated, but it isn’t; it’ll take about ten minutes to get from the road to Starstruck, the first route encountered on the ledge system – that is, unless you’re a flatlander.
There is a different description in the Ruckmans’ guide, but that is outdated and the approach described here is far better.
[Page updated Sept. 12, 2013.]
17 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Strone Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Strone Crag:
Starstruck 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Minotaur 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
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BETA PHOTO: Another view of Strone Crag. As shown in the phot...
BETA PHOTO: Photodiagram of Strone Crag and vicinity showing t...
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 10, 2011
We hiked way the hell up the loose gully between the Strone Crag and Challenge Buttress before we realized the right turn is almost immediately after passing Hollow Man before any rock is encountered on the right.
May 3, 2013
You want to know how to get there? Read the second paragraph of John S.' comment. Seriously, that description is perfect and easy to follow, thank you sir!
Jul 9, 2013
I vote this crag gets renamed to "Steiger Crag".