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Stroken' the Chicken 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bill Robbins, Paul Certa 1989
Season: Shade in morning and afternoon
Page Views: 1,027
Submitted By: CHopwood on May 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Stroken' the Chicken and surrounding routes


On the recommended routes list in the Yoder/Ford guidebook. Stem your way up between a dihedral and pillar, placing gear into the dihedral crack. This route would be very popular if someone would put some anchors on it, or at least some bolts to belay from at the top. There is a large chockstone at ~70 feet that has slings around it. You could stop here, or continue to the top and build a gear anchor at 100 ft.


Between the two sport 5.9s Whipsaw and Throbbing Gristle. If you continue to the top, walk a few routes to the East (climber's right) to an obvious rap station.


Standard rack, on the bigger size. The crack is fairly uniform at about #2 Camalot most of the way.

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By Gordon Seslar
From: Wenatchee, WA
Mar 7, 2015

This route becomes a chimney climb after the chock stone. It is a very fun route, reminds me of Church Bowl Chimney (Yosemite) near the end.
By Stephenmontgomery
From: Maryland
Mar 16, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There are anchors at the top of the climb. Maybe I am horrible at finding placements but I had had two #3 camalots that I leapfrogged up the crack. I only found one #2 placement. Having said that, the climb is awesome.
By rangerjoe
Oct 10, 2016

Fun route which requires a variety of techniques at an entry level. Yes there are chains at the top now, nice to leave a directional in the left crack past the chockstone for top roping.
By kmfoerster
From: Seattle, Wa
Oct 17, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Up to the chockstone feels like 5.6 and it gets a bit harder after that to the anchors above. The portion above the chockstone felt like 5.7/5.8 . The gear recommendations say #2 camalots mostly but I found that #3 placements were the most common. A really fun route.

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