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Lower Capitalist Crag
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YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Darren Mabe, 11/02
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,356
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Nov 8, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Darren Mabe pulling past the roof on Stroh's. Phot...


Approach as for Capitalist, but do not start up the hill nor descend to Lunchmoney. There is ledge system trending left for 100 feet. Stroh's starts from big boulder on ledge. The anchors of 'Lunchmoney' top out on this ledge system to the south. Consider belay anchors on the exposed ledge (TCUs / medium nuts / boulder thread).

Please respect historical 'plaque' at the base of the route.


6 bolts. 2 rap anchors. TCUs or medium nuts or boulder thread for possible belay anchor.

Photos of Stroh's Slideshow Add Photo
Thinking about the roof.
Thinking about the roof.
Mike Keegan at the 3rd bolt on Stroh's.
Mike Keegan at the 3rd bolt on Stroh's.
Comments on Stroh's Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 25, 2013
By piz
Dec 3, 2002

Here's another great route at an unused crag. Tricky, technical and crimpy best describe this line. With a good crux and great finishing holds, this route will be enjoyed by all who climb it.

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 3, 2003

Excellent climb! Although it is short, It is one of the best routes of its grade in CCC. Short people (like me) will find good starting just left of the boulder for the start. Felt like 11.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 7, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

The left-trending ledge system mentioned in the route description starts by a table-top boulder and white graffiti on the wall: "MAC JO 82".

By Anonymous Coward
May 5, 2004

If you don't want to down climb scramble from the base of the route, you can rap/lower to safe ground at the base of the wall with a 70m rope. With a 60m rope, you could get to easier ground but you would still have to scramble about 20 feet down. The ledges are easy but a fall would be very bad. Lowering or rapping is much safer on the way down.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 13, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

For your convenience, I added a 1 bolt belay anchor on the Stroh's ledge, oriented for upward pull and piece of mind.

By dan scales
From: Denver, CO
Apr 24, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

First onsight above 9. Bouldery moves on great feet. Good rests.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
May 5, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Really fun route. Two crux sections separated by interesting climbing.

By Andrew Bradberry
From: Golden, CO
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Really cool route.. all the holds are just where I wanted them to be! Those moves pulling the roof were the best for me.

By 303scott
Jun 17, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Nice line. Hard moves immediately off the deck.

By popes
From: Edgewater
May 6, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Highly recommend a stick clip for this route. There are some thin, kind of tricky moves off the deck and reaching the first bolt. While possible from the boulder at the base, it would be a lot easier with a stick clip. Blowing the first bolt would be really, really bad.
Otherwise, get on it!

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Is the belay bolt gone?

By slim
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I hope not, it was very handy. Fun route, Darren!

By Bal Rau
May 12, 2013

Belay bolt was there today.

By JonW
Jul 25, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Found this to be pretty stiff for 11a. For me, the crux was getting to the jug just below the roof. Perhaps I was missing something, but it was a long, balancy move off a not-so-good right hand. I found this climb to be significantly harder than Venture Capital (11a) to the left of this route.