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Chimney Rock
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New Year's Eve 
Perfect Peter 
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Venus' Flytrap And Environs 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs. 
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest 


YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type: Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Marti Woerner
Page Views: 228
Submitted By: Joe Lee on Nov 19, 2012
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Great, but overlooked, three pitch route up the center of Chimney Rock. A little bit of everything. Heady climbing at a moderate grade with tricky gear at times. Mostly good rock . . . Follow the topo from Squeezing the Lemmon II.

Pitch 1 starts below a U shaped ledge with a small tree (same for FIUTT). If you want to protect the initial moves (which I recommend) you can tie your shoes to the end of your rope and throw them over the tree. We had to use a nearby branch to pull the end down. From the tree make committing moves left and up. At the bong climb left into a box formation. I recommend belaying in the corner at the start of pitch 2 instead of the top of the column per the topo.

Pitch 2 ascends a step corner crack system. At the roof traverse left into a funky slot and shoot straight up to a depressed ledge.

Finish on Stripper direct. Move right and up past a small roof with a crack in it. Finish higher up with yet another steep section. Short pitch.


The start is towards the middle section of Chimney Rock. You're going to look for a low ledge with a small tree.

Descend by down climbing the back side. Somewhat tricky. Spot your partner. Once on the ground head right (if you face the rock). When you reach the end of the formation you can scramble easily over the rock to the front side and a large ledge with rap anchors. FULL single rope rappel. Make sure you are at your center.


Standard rack. Bring small gear. Gear anchors.

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By greg k
Nov 22, 2012

The 2nd pitch is a wonderful 5.8 romp. If not for the shared FIUTT opening moves, Stripper would be a stellar moderate.