|473 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 320 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.9 [details]|
|FA: ||Rick Ziegler and Austin Archer|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Winter, Spring, Summer (evenings), and Fall|
|Submitted By: ||rickziegler on May 13, 2011|
Starts next to left facing corner, 15 feet right of The Three Hour Arete. Clean, bolt protected granite slab and edge climbing leads to a hand sized crack. Step left to a thin crack. Step left across an exposed slab, clip a bolt and pull devious 5.9 bulge to a bolted anchor.
P2 continues up a bolted slab, to finger crack. Continue up and right, to easy climbing in a blocky crack. Bolted belay left of the crack. (Can combine P1 and P2) A better variation clips the first two bolts on the slab, then heads up and slightly right to the bulge on Three Hour Arete. (5.8)
P3 starts up a lieback flake (gear). Step right, continue up to a bolted face crux series of moves to easier ground. Move left to a bolted belay (or continue up P4) 5.9
P4 From the sloping ledge, move up the steep, featured crack to a bolted anchor.
Gear: Doubles to #3 camalot. 5.8
Descent: 4 raps down the route with a single 70m OR 5 raps with a 60 m (first rap is a short rap to the top anchor of 3 Hour Arete)
Approach: Park 0.6 miles past Pratt’s
0.6 miles up the road from Pratt's Crack Gully on Pine Creek Road, to where small a creek crosses road.
Walk on old mining road, to use trail.
Short Class 3 to base of cliff.
5 quickdraws. Gear: small - #3 camalot
The featured crack on the last pitch.
Looking east from the top of Strikeslip.
Rappelling the Three Hour Buttress. Three Hour Ar...
|By Vic Lawson|
From: Bishop, CA
May 14, 2011
Jun 12, 2011
Slippery.... but good. The warm up with a slightly tricky bulge at the top
Dec 16, 2012
Update: This route is now 4 pitches in length. See topo.
|By Todd Townsend|
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 20, 2013
A good route, worth doing for the money pitch, #4. A single 70 will get you down to the belay at the top of pitch 3, but just barely. My safety knots were touching my rappel device as I was reaching to tether in. Probably safer to do the short rap to the top of 3hr Arete first.