Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Three Hour Buttress
Select Route:
Hall Pass S 
StrikeSlip T,S 
Three Hour Arete T,S 

StrikeSlip 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 320'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rick Ziegler and Austin Archer
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter, Spring, Summer (evenings), and Fall
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: rickziegler on May 13, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Topo

Description 

Starts next to left facing corner, 15 feet right of The Three Hour Arete. Clean, bolt protected granite slab and edge climbing leads to a hand sized crack. Step left to a thin crack. Step left across an exposed slab, clip a bolt and pull devious 5.9 bulge to a bolted anchor.
P2 continues up a bolted slab, to finger crack. Continue up and right, to easy climbing in a blocky crack. Bolted belay left of the crack. (Can combine P1 and P2) A better variation clips the first two bolts on the slab, then heads up and slightly right to the bulge on Three Hour Arete. (5.8)
P3 starts up a lieback flake (gear). Step right, continue up to a bolted face crux series of moves to easier ground. Move left to a bolted belay (or continue up P4) 5.9
P4 From the sloping ledge, move up the steep, featured crack to a bolted anchor.
Gear: Doubles to #3 camalot. 5.8

Descent: 4 raps down the route with a single 70m OR 5 raps with a 60 m (first rap is a short rap to the top anchor of 3 Hour Arete)

Location 

Approach: Park 0.6 miles past Pratt’s
0.6 miles up the road from Pratt's Crack Gully on Pine Creek Road, to where small a creek crosses road.
Walk on old mining road, to use trail.
Short Class 3 to base of cliff.
10 minutes.

Protection 

5 quickdraws. Gear: small - #3 camalot


Photos of StrikeSlip Slideshow Add Photo
The featured crack on the last pitch.
The featured crack on the last pitch.
Looking east from the top of Strikeslip.
Looking east from the top of Strikeslip.
Rappelling the Three Hour Buttress.  Three Hour Arete on the left, Strikeslip on the right.
Rappelling the Three Hour Buttress. Three Hour Ar...

Comments on StrikeSlip Add Comment
Show which comments
By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Slippery!
By rickziegler
Jun 12, 2011

Slippery.... but good. The warm up with a slightly tricky bulge at the top
By rickziegler
Dec 16, 2012

Update: This route is now 4 pitches in length. See topo.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 20, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A good route, worth doing for the money pitch, #4. A single 70 will get you down to the belay at the top of pitch 3, but just barely. My safety knots were touching my rappel device as I was reaching to tether in. Probably safer to do the short rap to the top of 3hr Arete first.