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Three Hour Buttress
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StrikeSlip T,S 
Three Hour Arete T,S 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 320'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rick Ziegler and Austin Archer
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter, Spring, Summer (evenings), and Fall
Page Views: 1,212
Submitted By: rickziegler on May 13, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Starts next to left facing corner, 15 feet right of The Three Hour Arete. Clean, bolt protected granite slab and edge climbing leads to a hand sized crack. Step left to a thin crack. Step left across an exposed slab, clip a bolt and pull devious 5.9 bulge to a bolted anchor.
P2 continues up a bolted slab, to finger crack. Continue up and right, to easy climbing in a blocky crack. Bolted belay left of the crack. (Can combine P1 and P2) A better variation clips the first two bolts on the slab, then heads up and slightly right to the bulge on Three Hour Arete. (5.8)
P3 starts up a lieback flake (gear). Step right, continue up to a bolted face crux series of moves to easier ground. Move left to a bolted belay (or continue up P4) 5.9
P4 From the sloping ledge, move up the steep, featured crack to a bolted anchor.
Gear: Doubles to #3 camalot. 5.8

Descent: 4 raps down the route with a single 70m OR 5 raps with a 60 m (first rap is a short rap to the top anchor of 3 Hour Arete)


Approach: Park 0.6 miles past Pratt’s
0.6 miles up the road from Pratt's Crack Gully on Pine Creek Road, to where small a creek crosses road.
Walk on old mining road, to use trail.
Short Class 3 to base of cliff.
10 minutes.


5 quickdraws. Gear: small - #3 camalot

Photos of StrikeSlip Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The featured crack on the last pitch.
The featured crack on the last pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking east from the top of Strikeslip.
Looking east from the top of Strikeslip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rappelling the Three Hour Buttress.  Three Hour Ar...
Rappelling the Three Hour Buttress. Three Hour Ar...

Comments on StrikeSlip Add Comment
Show which comments
By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

By rickziegler
Jun 12, 2011

Slippery.... but good. The warm up with a slightly tricky bulge at the top
By rickziegler
Dec 16, 2012

Update: This route is now 4 pitches in length. See topo.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 20, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A good route, worth doing for the money pitch, #4. A single 70 will get you down to the belay at the top of pitch 3, but just barely. My safety knots were touching my rappel device as I was reaching to tether in. Probably safer to do the short rap to the top of 3hr Arete first.
By Milo
Dec 1, 2014

Way fun! Every bit as good as Big Deal!
By MisterE
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 19, 2015

2 pitch direct Slipstrike/3 Hour Arete hybrid:
Combines the best moderate pitches of both routes. This is the best way to get the most bang for your buck out of this formation in our humble opinion, as well as the fastest option. (1) 70 meter rope absolutely necessary (as Todd noted above).

P1 Climb the slippery bolted dihedral to an obvious crack. Stay left of bush at bulge (gear protected) . Mantle bulge, clip long draw on the anchor and keep going! Stay left and climb directly up the the first face/arete (P2) of 3 Hour Arete. Belay at bolted anchor. 65 meters. 16 draws, gear to 1/2”.

P2. Head right up dicey lay-back flake (p3) of Slipstrike. Continue straight up the face left of the crack. 3 bolts and optional small gear to the base of the giant crack/gully. Ignore mussy anchor 20 feet to your left. Just keep going up rad, fun, easy crack! (Optional gear anchor at base of crack if you don't want to do the monster pitch).
69 meter pitch. Lots of friggin draws/runners. 2-3 #2s double mid-sized gear.

Descent: (1) 70 meter rope barely makes it to the first rappel ledge. You may have to rap off the ends to clip the anchor, (do the short rap to 3 Hour Arete anchors if this makes you nervous, or double ropes). 3 more raps get you to the base.
By Dave Livingston
Jul 3, 2015

Best route in Pine Creek Canyon. Granted, I've only climbed ~ half-dozen, or so in the Canyon, nonetheless, its got good rock, fun moves and the last pitch is awesome...
By Vit
Sep 30, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The topo photo is off. Near the top of P1 go past bolt to anchor left of bush (5.8) Lots of loose blocks right of bush! P2 go straight up crack/broken face, do not trend right (5.7). P3 start up flake, clip bolt, then face climb up to anchor or step right to crack (5.8). P4 is a really fun 5.7.

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