StrikeSlip 5.9
| 473 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 320 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Rick Ziegler and Austin Archer |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Winter, Spring, Summer (evenings), and Fall |
| Submitted By: | rickziegler on May 13, 2011 |
| |
Topo
Add Photo Printer View
Description Starts next to left facing corner, 15 feet right of The Three Hour Arete. Clean, bolt protected granite slab and edge climbing leads to a hand sized crack. Step left to a thin crack. Step left across an exposed slab, clip a bolt and pull devious 5.9 bulge to a bolted anchor. P2 continues up a bolted slab, to finger crack. Continue up and right, to easy climbing in a blocky crack. Bolted belay left of the crack. (Can combine P1 and P2) A better variation clips the first two bolts on the slab, then heads up and slightly right to the bulge on Three Hour Arete. (5.8) P3 starts up a lieback flake (gear). Step right, continue up to a bolted face crux series of moves to easier ground. Move left to a bolted belay (or continue up P4) 5.9 P4 From the sloping ledge, move up the steep, featured crack to a bolted anchor. Gear: Doubles to #3 camalot. 5.8 Descent: 4 raps down the route with a single 70m OR 5 raps with a 60 m (first rap is a short rap to the top anchor of 3 Hour Arete)
Location Approach: Park 0.6 miles past Pratt’s 0.6 miles up the road from Pratt's Crack Gully on Pine Creek Road, to where small a creek crosses road. Walk on old mining road, to use trail. Short Class 3 to base of cliff. 10 minutes.
Protection 5 quickdraws. Gear: small - #3 camalot
The featured crack on the last pitch.
| Looking east from the top of Strikeslip.
| Rappelling the Three Hour Buttress. Three Hour Ar...
| | | |
By Vic Lawson From: Bishop, CA May 14, 2011 rating: 5.9
| Slippery! |
By rickziegler Jun 12, 2011
| Slippery.... but good. The warm up with a slightly tricky bulge at the top |
By rickziegler Dec 16, 2012
| Update: This route is now 4 pitches in length. See topo. |
By Todd Townsend From: Bishop, CA Mar 20, 2013 rating: 5.9
| A good route, worth doing for the money pitch, #4. A single 70 will get you down to the belay at the top of pitch 3, but just barely. My safety knots were touching my rappel device as I was reaching to tether in. Probably safer to do the short rap to the top of 3hr Arete first. |
|