Strictly From Nowhere 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Art Gran, Jim Andress, 1959 |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006 |
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Approaching the Strictly crux.
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description The large roof on the first pitch is the main reason to climb this route. It's a blast!
P1: Climb to the right of a small tiered overhang near the ground. Wander up, aiming generally left towards the right-facing dihedral (the original route belayed here), then head up steep rock into the left-facing corner/roof. Work up into the roof, then escape right to the bolts (and protect your follower(s)!). Belay at bolts. 5.7, 100'.
P2: Follow the crack above to a right-facing dihedral and a sling belay at a tree. 5.4, 70'.
P2: Or for a better, more consistent 2nd pitch, follow the thin crack up to a tiny tree, then move up and left on hero holds through small overhangs to the top. Good pro, fun moves, more exposure (5.6, courtesy of Larry Hamilton).
Rap the route with one rope. There are bolts at the P1 belay.
Protection Standard Rack.
Location The Strictly's access trail is where the East Trapps Connector trail meets the carriage road, about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.
This route starts almost directly above the access trail's end, on the face 25' left of the right-facing dihedral of Shockley's Ceiling, directly below a small tiered overhang.
Link-ups Strictly from Nowhere itself is classic enough - but there are several link-up opportunities that add even more value:
1) For a more-challenging start, climb the initial corner of Oscar and Charlie, just to the left, then aim towards the Strictly roof.
2) After the first pitch, you can traverse up and right (5.4) and belay at pins to link to the third pitch of Shockley's Ceiling, if the crowds allow.
From Nowhere to Jugs
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roof section of Strictly's
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Breanna working her way through the jugfest that i...
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Hal Chorny pulling the hang on "Strictly".
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the roof
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Finishing up P1 of Strictly From Nowhere with item...
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| Comments on Strictly From Nowhere |
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.7
| I did the initial variation, it really makes this climb even more classic! |
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Oct 23, 2009
rating: 5.7 PG13
| An excellent climb! Crux is the roof, bring some small cams. Protect your follower after the crux, otherwise, it's a swing into air. |
By S. Neoh
Apr 11, 2011
| Many years ago, I did this climb and Shockley's in the same afternoon. I thought this climb was better and more interesting than Shockley's, no disrespect to the man. |
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 28, 2011
| With the Oscar variation this is the best 5.7 in the gunks. |
By Joe Lee
From: tucson, az
May 13, 2012
| Got to experience the up and down congo line on this route. For all those who top out in this area, the only sensible way to get down is the Ribs Rap Route. The anchor at the very top of Strickly should be removed. |
By farkas.time
From: Sheffield, UK
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.7
| Holy amazing climb. A MUST do. |
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