Strictly From Nowhere
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Approaching the Strictly crux.
The large roof on the first pitch is the main reason to climb this route. It's a blast!
P1: Climb to the right of a small tiered overhang near the ground. Wander up, aiming generally left towards the right-facing dihedral (the original route belayed here), then head up steep rock into the left-facing corner/roof. Work up into the roof, then escape right to the bolts (and protect your follower(s)!). Belay at bolts. 5.7, 100'.
P2: Follow the crack above to a right-facing dihedral and a sling belay at a tree. 5.4, 70'.
P2: Or for a better, more consistent 2nd pitch, follow the thin crack up to a tiny tree, then move up and left on hero holds through small overhangs to the top. Good pro, fun moves, more exposure (5.6, courtesy of Larry Hamilton).
Rap the route with one rope. There are bolts at the P1 belay.
The Strictly's access trail is where the East Trapps Connector trail meets the carriage road, about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.
This route starts almost directly above the access trail's end, on the face 25' left of the right-facing dihedral of Shockley's Ceiling, directly below a small tiered overhang.
Strictly from Nowhere itself is classic enough - but there are several link-up opportunities that add even more value:
1) For a more-challenging start, climb the initial corner of Oscar and Charlie, just to the left, then aim towards the Strictly roof.
2) After the first pitch, you can traverse up and right (5.4) and belay at pins to link to the third pitch of Shockley's Ceiling, if the crowds allow.
From Nowhere to Jugs
roof section of Strictly's
Breanna working her way through the jugfest that i...
Hal Chorny pulling the hang on "Strictly".
Finishing up P1 of Strictly From Nowhere with item...
|Comments on Strictly From Nowhere
|By Ladd Raine|
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 29, 2007
I did the initial variation, it really makes this climb even more classic!
From: New York, NY
Oct 23, 2009
rating: 5.7 PG13
An excellent climb! Crux is the roof, bring some small cams. Protect your follower after the crux, otherwise, it's a swing into air.
|By S. Neoh|
Apr 11, 2011
Many years ago, I did this climb and Shockley's in the same afternoon. I thought this climb was better and more interesting than Shockley's, no disrespect to the man.
|By worth russell|
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 28, 2011
With the Oscar variation this is the best 5.7 in the gunks.
|By Joe Lee|
From: tucson, az
May 13, 2012
Got to experience the up and down congo line on this route. For all those who top out in this area, the only sensible way to get down is the Ribs Rap Route. The anchor at the very top of Strickly should be removed.
From: Sheffield, UK
May 29, 2012
Holy amazing climb. A MUST do.