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Wheeler-Newsome Wall
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Strewn Masters of Gore T,S 
Tick Fever T 
Wing Nut T 

Strewn Masters of Gore 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Steve Hong, Karin Budding , Steve Carruthers FFA: Steve Hong, 1984
Page Views: 520
Submitted By: Ben Ricketts on Jun 2, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Side view of Strewn Masters of Gore, small dotted ...


This is a fun, challenging line. There are 2 options for starting the route. Option 1 start the same as for Wing Nuts but after clipping the bolt on Wing Nuts traverse right to the large flake. Option 2, start under the larger protruding tooth on the far right side of the wall. Follow face holds up under the tooth to a crack. There is no protection until you get to the crack but the climbing is easy once you get off the ground. Traverse to the left side of the tooth and follow the crack around the tooth with some stemming and liebacking. The climbing to this point is easy and fun with good gear. As you pull around onto the top of the tooth things get much more difficult. A couple of finger locks lead to hard liebacking past 4 bolts to a two bolt anchor.


This route starts on faceholds on the far right side of Wheeler Newsome wall under a larger protruding flake.


Cams from 0.5" to 3". 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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By Quino Gonzalez
Oct 19, 2013

This route is interesting. The section after the first bolt (11a) doesn't take great protection. Once under the roof, that you can protect with a size 2 cam or bigger, it mellows down a little and a rest is possible, but then the crux is next, with difficult liebacking and clips. It is a very good route that deserves more attention.
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