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Note: This route is unrepeated since the first ascent due to the horror stories about the lack of protection. Modern large cams and Big Bros may reduce the risk considerably.
(1) Layback the left crack (hardest near the ground) to the point where you can step over to the right crack (at about 90 ft)and finish up less strenuous terrain to the ledge.
About 300 yards past the Surfin' the Turf area is a large block leaning against the main wall. A prominent left-leaning pair of cracks split the face.
1/2" to as big as you've got.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 27, 2011
Sure, large cams & Big Bros would help. But the biggest obstacle on the upper crack is a lack of resting places.