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Great Northern Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Over Aries S 
Aires T 
Blockbuster T 
Breakfast of Champions T 
Great Northern Slab T 
Let's Go Bowling T,S 
Libra Crack T 
Marginal Karma T 
Nick O' Time T 
On the Verge S 
Pisces T 
Pretty Vacant S 
Roger's Corner T 
Sickle Crack T 
Sonic Reducer S 
Strength Through Bowling T 
Sugar Bear T 
Taurus T 
Terminal Preppie T,S 
Voyage to the Bottom of the Verge T 

Strength Through Bowling 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,049
Submitted By: Colin Bartholomew on Aug 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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A decent start leads to a bolt with sweet underclings through the reachy roof. Easier but still thin climbing leads past another bolt and some gear placements to another bolt and a traverse left and then back right to the anchors.


Great north slab. Between Terminal Preppy and Roger's Corner.


a few QD. Thin gear to green alien. A number 3 camalot was helpful. Also .75 is supposed to be good but I personally didn't need it.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 23, 2016
By Eric8
From: Maynard, MA
Aug 13, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

4 stars seriously?
By Colin Bartholomew
Aug 15, 2010

So you hate life, no?
By Eric8
From: Maynard, MA
Aug 16, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

no, just don't like crumbly rock and poor dynamic 1 move wonders. Of all the 5.11 routes I have done at index this is EASILY the worst one. Terminal preppie just to the left for example has no crumby rock and excellent movement. That is a four star route....
By Mark Straub
From: Berkeley, CA
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I think this route is great. Bomb rating, really? It's a fun slab route with some cool moves, not really a one-move wonder.
By damonachey
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 4, 2011

I think this may be a little soft for the grade comparing it to other index routes in this range
By jdberndt
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 7, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I think it's a good pitch. Not sustained but definitely not a gimme. Hardware recently updated by Gabe and Doug. Definitely safe where it needs to be. It deserves some traffic and might clean up a bit in the flaky upper slab.
By Douglas T
Mar 30, 2013

I'd be happy if folks gave it a consensus 2.5 star rating. The moves and position might give it a 4 star rating, but the rock quality in the easiest section bumps it down. I wouldn't go out of my way to climb it, but it's a good warm-up/transition climb between Rogers Corner and Terminal Preppie.

After having folks from >6ft and <5'8", we gave it a 5.10d grade. It's easier for taller people and harder for shorter people and the 10d seemed to be an average. If one feels 5.10c is the grade they would tell their friends, I would not consider it sandbagged.

As a fun side note, and purely my opinion here, I recently climbed in Joshua Tree on 3 climbs: Gem, Colorado Crack and Spiderman. All 3 had similar sections of poor rock as "Strength" but the climbs have high ratings/recommendations. My conclusion, Index is better than J-Tree… but dont tell anybody ;-)

Watch the video if you want to see how I did the cruxes.

By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 17, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I am one of those fools that likes this route, and have climbed it a few times, and have come to the conclusion that the bolt that protects the first crux roof move is in the wrong place, it should be on the left side, it forces the rope across your body and if you fall, you will be tangled up or flipped upside down, I am tall and stick this move but it is awkward as is. I would move the bolt over to the left.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
May 17, 2016

You have my permission to move the bolt.

We didn't always think very hard about the best bolt placement back then. Perhaps it was placed on lead, I don't remember anything about it, unfortunately.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 18, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

yeah, I could see it being placed on lead, a good stance to drill there. The Clint book mentions the anchor being stolen. I can't remember what was there before someone added the new sport anchor. Did it always end that way, or did it go off left? I will think about it some more before moving the bolt, but thanks for your impute.
By Douglas T
May 22, 2016

Geoff and Jon,

Gabe and I placed the bolts where we did more because the rock wasn’t solid or of bolt-placing-quality where we actually DID want to place the bolts. We did lots of tapping with the hammer to hear where rock was solid.

We believed the original route went up the Terminal Preppie line and figured a more fun finish was to climb the Guillotine Block. Glad you like it.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
May 23, 2016

Thanks for the explanation Doug.

I think that the original finishing anchor was just a sling on the left end of the large block. It did not finish with the last part of Terminal P-.

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