A decent start leads to a bolt with sweet underclings through the reachy roof. Easier but still thin climbing leads past another bolt and some gear placements to another bolt and a traverse left and then back right to the anchors.
Great north slab. Between Terminal Preppy and Roger's Corner.
a few QD. Thin gear to green alien. A number 3 camalot was helpful. Also .75 is supposed to be good but I personally didn't need it.
By Eric8 From: Framingham Aug 16, 2010 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
no, just don't like crumbly rock and poor dynamic 1 move wonders. Of all the 5.11 routes I have done at index this is EASILY the worst one. Terminal preppie just to the left for example has no crumby rock and excellent movement. That is a four star route....
By Mark Straub From: Everett, WA Jun 5, 2011 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
I think this route is great. Bomb rating, really? It's a fun slab route with some cool moves, not really a one-move wonder.
By damonachey From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 4, 2011
I think this may be a little soft for the grade comparing it to other index routes in this range
By jdberndt From: Seatte, WA Aug 7, 2011 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
I think it's a good pitch. Not sustained but definitely not a gimme. Hardware recently updated by Gabe and Doug. Definitely safe where it needs to be. It deserves some traffic and might clean up a bit in the flaky upper slab.
I'd be happy if folks gave it a consensus 2.5 star rating. The moves and position might give it a 4 star rating, but the rock quality in the easiest section bumps it down. I wouldn't go out of my way to climb it, but it's a good warm-up/transition climb between Rogers Corner and Terminal Preppie.
After having folks from >6ft and <5'8", we gave it a 5.10d grade. It's easier for taller people and harder for shorter people and the 10d seemed to be an average. If one feels 5.10c is the grade they would tell their friends, I would not consider it sandbagged.
As a fun side note, and purely my opinion here, I recently climbed in Joshua Tree on 3 climbs: Gem, Colorado Crack and Spiderman. All 3 had similar sections of poor rock as "Strength" but the climbs have high ratings/recommendations. My conclusion, Index is better than J-Tree… but dont tell anybody ;-)
Watch the video if you want to see how I did the cruxes.