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Der Freischutz
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Street Hassle 

Street Hassle 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Hank Caylor and Paul Glover, 1987.
Page Views: 1,167
Submitted By: Kristo torgersen on Aug 3, 2001
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Difficult onsight of the chalkless tricky slab....
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This immaculate slab climb is located on the Frankenstein's Castle formation located in the gully between The Hand and Der Freischutz. It ascends a shallow right facing dihedral up a slab, behind a tree, on the south side of the gully just before reaching the Der Freischutz west face. The crux moves are right off the ground, and so stick clipping the first bolt is advised (a stick can be found near the base, just bring tape). Begin by moving off of two good crimpers up right to a gaston, match left foot to left hand, and reach up left for some small holds, then stand up to gain some good crimpers at the base of the dihedral. From here the first bolt could be clipped (should already be stick clipped). From here all the moves are no harder than 5.11. follow a series of sidepulls and pinches up past a second bolt (careful clipping) and towards a third, keeping your feet below the dihedral. After clipping the third bolt, move up and over the dihedral and a second small overlap on good holds to and fourth bolt and easy climbing to the anchors. This is a stellar slab climb, well worth the hike, and makes for a good day when climbed with Power Bulge (5.12c) on the south face of The Hand formation, directly across the gully. One is delicate and slabby with the crux right of the ground, the other is steep and sustained with the crux moves at the end!


Protection 

Four bolts to coldshut anchors.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 17, 2011
By XOG
Feb 1, 2003

Actually managed to top-rope this today - leading's next (with a crash pad for the start I think it's comparable to a lot of local boulders as far as the 1st bolt goes). Different beta for the crux sequence - get on the obvious first set of decent crimps, stem out right (and a little high at this point) to a decent notch with the right foot, work the left foot up on smears until you can reach a tiny bad crimp for the right hand, then (this is the crux) move the left foot up to a smear pocket and reach for a left hand sidepull that can be pinched with the thumb. High step with the right foot, and a couple of thin moves off a couple of right hand crimps and a left hand pebble get you to the good clipping hold.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 20, 2004

I think there are several possibilities. When Greg told me that these were 'chopped' I was a little surprised. My first thought was that it was one of the 'exclusionists' in the OSMP scene trying to create a problem and get the climbing focus off of access to the wilderness areas.The routes that were chopped were not terribly hard routes, they were below easily accessable anchors to rap and pull from. The bolts were screwed out and not patched. This was in at least the case that Greg told me of and I verified, Back In Slacks...They did not 'chop' or remove the ring bolt on Back In Slacks. So this was done easily and lazily.

I considered for a bit that maybe it was a resonse to the new lines bolted up there recently, since the trial plan for Dino Mountain went into effect, whereas botls can be placed again... But the two new routes were left intact.

Which leads me to the next possibility- that this is some strange response to the recent bolting controversies in other areas... but then why would someone chop routes by Rossiter and others.

It seems sloppy- the MO was to remove routes, whatever routes were most easliy accessed and removed. No point was really made here.

I'd give it 95%+ odds that the person responsible is watching this discussion with some satisfaction either way, so my first suggestion to Greg was to just replace them quietly- screw some bolts with hangers back into the sleaves and not make an issue out of it. There are more people that want them there than want them gone. Might as well go put them back & see what happens ...not going to happen like that now though, I guess.

By XOG
Feb 14, 2005

I forgot to mention - with the re-equipping, please remember if you go up now that you may be one of the, if not the, first people to climb this route with the new bolts and anchors. As such you are in a similar position to a 1st ascensionist - so please keep your eyes open and be prepared for the possibility that you may have to add some finishing touches yourself (i.e. - bring a wrench). This is absolutely not to imply that there is any doubt that the re-equipping was not done in the best possible manner - just that this gear is new and as yet completely unused.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 15, 2005
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Gear Alert

If you like high angle, New Hampshire style slabs, this is a really fun route. I did it ten years ago, and I don't remember it being scary. A good spotter should do the trick. It's also a good warm-up for the upper section of Power Bulge. KC

By Nate Adams
Mar 1, 2007

Street Hassle received new gear in 2005. The ASCA provided all the hardware for the anchor replacement.

Note that Drugs, Knot Carrot and Touch Monkey were upgraded at the same time. Thanks Terry, Greg, Kevin, and others.

Regarding Greg's comment about bringing a wrench - I would strongly advise against tightening the nuts unless they are indeed loose, as in a spinning hanger.

Oh, I didn't see any signs of chopping. The bolts had been removed in preparation for re-bolting.

By Tom Hanson
Mar 1, 2007

Nate,
Were the original bolts replaced in the same locations?
It has been ages since I did this route, but if memory serves, there were three bolts?
Have any been added that were not there originally.
The old Rossiter guide says that "the first bolt is waaaay to far off the deck."
It didn't seem that way to me.

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Mar 5, 2007

I seem to recall placing the first bolt kinda high, cuz it's cruxy and thin in that section and seemed too hard to clip, sorta. Also, we didn't have access to hammer drills and hangars being sold on the internet for 50cents a piece in 1986. Bolts and hangars were much harder to come by, oh yeah, I was 17 years old when that thing went up........I had stronger knees back then.

By Nate Adams
Mar 6, 2007

Tom, I would concur with Hank, Greg and Richard - the first bolt seems kinda high (and still is). I think that might be why Greg used a crash pad for the start. It would suck to blow the first clip and deck, especially with aging knees. I wouldn't be shy at all about toting a stick clip along.
I most definitely did not re-place original bolts in the same locations, as the original bolts were quite rusty. I plan to place the original bolts on a rad new line in Boulder Canyon. Kidding! :)
Seriously, I installed brand spanking new stainless hardware as close to the original hole as possible, and camoflaged the old hole with epoxy and sand. The camo worked so well, I had a hard time seeing the old hole when I stared directly at it!
The bolt count's the same as it was in 1986. Wouldn't want to piss off a crazy Texan who ain't skeered of jumpin' off skyscrapers and bridges.

By Tom Hanson
Mar 7, 2007

Hi Nate,
Thanks for the beta.
I think that Street Hassle was one of my first 5.12 sport climbs.
I must have led it shortly after Hank and Paul did the FA.
I haven't been back to that route since, but I am reminded of it daily. My old buddy, who was a professional photographer, took a picture of me leading it about twenty years ago, and that photo is on the wall of my den. I can't believe it's been two decades!
I often hear how it's best to pull the old bolt and then redrill the hole with a half inch bit and replace the aged 3/8" bolt with a new 1/2"
However, I have found that when you fill the hole with glue and paint the suface with rock dust, you can't see the original hole, as you stated.
Kudos to you for taking up the task of maintaining sport climbs in The Flatirons.
The bolts at Castlewood are about twenty years old now too, and many are exhibiting rust.
I plan on working with the park staff to monitor and replace aging bolts at The Wood.

By Pinklebear
Jul 24, 2010

Two new applications have come in so far for the September 15 cycle (close of the deadline) for the Flatirons Fixed Hardware Review Committee; one is for a new, lower first bolt on Street Hassle. Others might come along in the next month or two, as well.

Please go here to leave comments: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>

Date of the public meeting/vote to be announced in September.

By Paul Glover
May 17, 2011

FIRST BOLT ADDED:
There is now a new first bolt on Street Hassle. I have wanted to add it for years. After jumping through all the city's hoops, it is finally in.