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West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock TR 
Atom Smasher S 
Break on Through T 
Break On Through to Chianti T 
Chianti T 
Clear-a-Sill T 
Cruisin' for Burgers T 
Ein Kluck T,TR 
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 
Gibbet, The T 
Incarnation S 
Long John Wall T 
Next to Nearly T 
Rictus T 
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 
Shock Of the New T,TR 
Strawberry Shortcut T 
Sunshine Wall T,TR 
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 
Unlead, The T,TR 
Unsaid, The T 
Uranus T 
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 
Washington Irving T 
White Rabbit T 

Strawberry Shortcut 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: George Hurley, Cindy Stanley, Chris Reveley, 1976
Page Views: 1,803
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Apr 29, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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The lower dihedral. Photo by Tonya Riggs

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Starts in between The Unsaid and Cruisin' for Burgers from a large ledge with a tree. Climb a right facing dihedral with small gear (a little vegetated). Pull up left where it gets vertical and step right above the roof (crux). Belay at the broken band and rap from The Unsaid or Washington Irving anchor. This pitch is worth doing if you're in the area and other routes are occupied. I wouldn't make an outing of it though.

Protection 

Rossiter's book calls this pitch "S", but I thought the pro was fine.


Photos of Strawberry Shortcut Slideshow Add Photo
Eds.  Note, this rappel may be a rope stretcher with a short downclimb with a 50m rope.  Consider 2 ropes or a 60m rope.
BETA PHOTO: Eds. Note, this rappel may be a rope stretcher wi...
At the crux. <br />Photo: Roth.
At the crux.
Photo: Roth.
Nearing the crux.  Photo by Tonya Riggs
Nearing the crux. Photo by Tonya Riggs
The "Direct Finish", 8 something, lies above and left of Tony, climbing over some small ceiling and  into the sunny right facing corner, then over another ceiling. Tony has decided not to continue due to major rope drag and running out of gear. The crux roof of Strawberry Shortcut is down and left of Tony.
The "Direct Finish", 8 something, lies above and l...
Setting up for the crux.  Photo by Tonya Riggs
Setting up for the crux. Photo by Tonya Riggs
Starting up the Shortcut.
Starting up the Shortcut.

Comments on Strawberry Shortcut Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 21, 2002
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I did the route again yesterday. You wind up to the crux by moving slightly left in the dihedral after a low angle section, and then make the crux shifting hard right into a second slab. This is the steepest part of the climb, but it is not [terribly] difficult. The rock is not as bad as I recalled. At the start of the crux sequence there is good pro. To protect the crux well requires nuts in the #3-#5 (Black Diamond sizing or equivalent) range, these will give you solid protection below; I suggest a double set of nuts [in the] small range or some large RP's. A fall to the slab below could still be possible with rope stretch, so use short slings or draws. Two very small cams (tops to first knuckle= orange to Yellow HB cams or size Eq.) protect high and left under a [reasonable] flake [immediately] prior to the crux move. This pro is at waist level as the crux is completed. Presuming the cams hold and reasonable belayer attention is given, you will not get any exciting falls on this route.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 14, 2002
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I did this yesterday and thought it was quite good. The rock and gear seemed fine. There were some surprisingly hard moves in the middle section getting up to the roof. That part looked easy from below. There is great gear at the roof. A few feet below you can get some good brass and a cam. I used a 1.5 WC offset Friend (I'm loving these!), but the offset is not necessary. At the roof I used a green Alien (tight). I had to downclimb half the pitch to retrieve this, since I had used both my cams in that size range down below. The crux move seemed hard to me. For my first try I used reach instead of brains, got stuck and couldn't reverse, so I grabbed the cam. I then figured it out and did it a pretty cool way.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Jul 14, 2003

Climbed this yesterday and liked it. Nothing to get too excited about, though. Pulling over the roof was fun and a bit spicey. Decent pro for the most part.
By Lance Cockwood
Feb 12, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route, well worth three stars.
By Sergio P
From: Idaho Springs, CO
Feb 7, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The Eldo guide book gives this route a "S" rating. However, I disagree. There is good (not great) gear before and after the crux move (5.9+). What might give this route an "S" rating could be based on the non-obvious move required to pull the crux. Although the crux move is not beyond 5.9+, it is not clear how you should do it when you get there. This is a fun route worth doing if your are in the area.
By S. Kimball
Jun 14, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If this is 5.9, + or not ???I'll eat my hat.
By Brent Roaten
From: Anchorage, AK
Nov 27, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Did this route yesterday but had not read these comments prior. The gear up to the crux is great. However, unless I completely missed something, you can't get in gear until after you have pulled the crux and made a move a bit up the slab. If you fall pulling the crux with the last piece below you and to the left (see Ernie's photo) it could be ugly and merits an "S" rating. The move is [committing] and I thought 5.9+ was right on...
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Mar 6, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

I agree with the above statement. The crux it self is pretty well protected but there is no gear for a while after the move over the roof however, the climbing does ease off. I got a sweet green Alien in at the crux.
It is not a hard move but, very inobvious once your standing under the roof. I had to climb up try it it one way then, downclimb to the slab when I realized that wasn't gonna work. I repeated this process 3 times before I realized how high you need to climb before making the balancey step onto the roof.

Three stars for thoughtfulness at the crux.

Warning for the second : If you blow the crux you WILL swing to the right and tumble across the lip of the roof.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There is also a seldom-done second pitch to this route. Rossiter refers to this as a separate climb called "The Direct Finish" in the latest Eldo guidebook. I do not recall who did the FA, but it was a later date.
To climb the second pitch (5.8), climb the crux and slab of the Strawberry Shortcut and when you hit the loose band above and start moving up and left to the ledge as for anchors above The Unlead and Cruising For Burgers, look up. You will see a shallow, right-facing corner hanging above. Continue up through a bulging face, moving up and left, then back right. Cams go in horizontals for starts (reasonably good gear, but 'crafty'), then placements are easy to find once in the corner. Continue to the top of the rack and finish up and over.

Walk over to the big corner to the West as for Sunshine Wall and then rap down that route on 2 raps. 60m rope advised, but not required.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 13, 2010

I mean who doesn't like the backstep-lean-reach-belly flop crux maneuver! I must admit it is difficult in gloves if you can't reach (or feel) that crimper above the bulge. Nice glove-point by my partner on this one. Maybe there should be a new scale for gloved ascents in Eldo (snicker)... but seriously, it can really make easier routes challenging and a blast in winter!