Straw Turkey 5.10a
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Darin Lang, just before courageously bailing on St...
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Description This climb is on Turkey Rock.
P1. The first pitch offers excellent moves up disjointed thin cracks with great moves and superb protection. The start begins 10-15 feet right of a huge pine tree, at the base of the climb there is a good lounging rock. Begin the climb by face climbing up the incipient cracks, past a great mantle, and up to two steep small dihedrals. After the dihedrals, find a good ledge for the belay (this is a long pitch).
P2. For the second pitch continue up the chimney/crack system until you reach an 20' offwidth section. Place your #5 and go, or walk it up. For an offwidth its not too bad (7).
P3. The last pitch exits up a small 5.6 section. Walk off to the right. Last note: You can avoid the offwidth pitch by bringing two ropes and rappelling off some slings on the first pitch.
Protection Bring double wires, and cams to #1 on first pitch, the off-width section will need a #5.
Paul enjoying the crux finger section of Straw Tur...
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BETA PHOTO: Nearing the top of first pitch.
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At the good rest on the "mantle" ledge.
Photo C. M...
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In the crux thin crack near the top of pitch one.
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Straw Turkey 1 pitch just before the thin stuff at...
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Start of the 2nd pitch.
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1/3 up the 2nd pitch, this part was a lot of fun 5...
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The 5.8 OW . . . got a #3 Big-Bro in at the ...
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Looking down the 2nd pitch from just below the OW.
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By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Nov 7, 2001
| As my partner, the infamous Dean Miller stated, "this route defines 10a in the Platte." |
By Lyle Monzyk
Aug 15, 2002
| Please help with the FA, was it Mr. Dunn, or Mr. Wiggins? |
By Hayden Yurkanis
Jul 22, 2003
| This climb offers varied and sustained climbing, you might want to bring up an RP or two if you're at your limit and want to really sew her up---excellent pro the whole way even though it looks like the first 40ft are going to be spicy. |
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Oct 13, 2003
rating: 5.10a
| When I first did this in '99 there were slings off to the right ( around the horizontal crack ) These are now gone. Continue up to the cables to rap off.
Great feet up the whole route! |
By Chris Barlow
Sep 28, 2004
rating: 5.10a
| As far as rapping off after the first pitch, you can also do a short downclimb to the large ledge ten feet lower than the cable belay and then traverse well to the right, around the corner. There is another anchor from which you can get to the ground with one rope (a 60m leaves you with a touch of down climbing). |
By Chad Stebbins
Jun 27, 2005
| Regarding the first pitch, I think this is one of those "no move is harder than 10a" routes. Great sustained and varied climbing. The gear is a little thin if you want to protect the mantle move directly, and if you don't, the fall would be unpleasant.
It doesn't get much better than this. |
By Scott Bennett
Mar 4, 2009
| You can rap/lower off the fixed anchor atop p1 (some nuts and webbing) with a 70m rope. Great route, a must do at the grade. |
By Nelson
From: FT Carson
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.9+
| A blue TCU protects the mantle quite nicely, there is a little pod that it fits in. |
By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
May 6, 2011
| This is a must do on Turkey Rock! |
By Lyont72
From: Foco, CO
Jun 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| Top notch route . . . lots of variation all over the climb. Posted a few photos, hope they help.
Happy sending |
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