The way I've always done this route is to just continue from above Stratocater Direct, this makes it a sport climb. Alternately you can start in the corner to the right at 5.10 and you need some gear.
From the Direct anchors head up to a higher anchor and belay. Power up the sculpted arete on really cool wind carved holds. Finish by doing a wierd "mantle" into a scoop/ fin of rock that curves out behind you.
Great position, cool movement and holds.
Climbs the prominent arete on the right hand side of the Stratocaster Wall. Starting in a corner to the right or on Stratocaster Direct.
Bolts and bolted anchor if using the Direct start, otherwise gear is needed for the first pitch.
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
P1 was a bit awkward and includes a non-trivial unprotected traverse to gain the bolts. P2 is a fantastic climb on super sculpted holds.
|By Austin Boren|
From: ;as vegas Nevada
Nov 17, 2013
we had a mini epic 30 feet off the ground. We couldn't get past the traverse after the chimney. If you need a number 3 nut you know where it is.
Nov 19, 2013
Epic at 30 feet! Keep your phone handy to call SAR when attempting this pitch.
The start is a total grovel-fest. Unprotected belly flopping / worm squirming / mantle to get off the ground, then (after a rest) your reward is an awkward flaring chimney protected by as many #00 - .25 cams as you want to put in. I think I had 6 in the space of about 3 feet.
Falling off the exit, even with gear at your knees would be painful.
I have to assume the second pitch has one of the most lopsided ratios of "awesomeness vs number of people who actually try it" possible, due to needing to either climb the aforementioned grovel or the 12c direct just to get to it. Yuck.