Stratocaster Direct  5.12b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Dan McQuade Season:  Any Submitted By:  Matt McMurray on Apr 25, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Matt McMurray crossing-through after the dynamic t...

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Description 

The crux consists of a series of difficult crimps at the second bolt, followed by a dynamic move to a huge triangular shaped point. This really seems like a sweet boulder problem that continues up through a series of juggy heucos to the anchors. Be sure you are solid in clipping the third bolt, as there is a potential for a groundfall if your belayer isn't proficient. Most people I've seen climb the route stick-clip the first two bolts for protection. The crux moves earn the grade for the climb, yet after the crux it is more like 5.10 climbing. Word has it that the first ascensionist would do a "superman" dive from the elevated bushes behind the route to the jug rail as an alternative start. Kudos to Dan!! I tried this on toprope. I am 6'2" and could barely make this jump from the bushes. My partner was 5'10" and was unsuccessful. Regardless if you climb this route you should really try it! =)

Location 

This route climbs out from the right side of the Stratocaster cave. There is an obvious belay stance under the first bolt. Be careful of the sticky bushes if you come swinging off the route!

Protection 

Five bolts to some eyebolt anchors.

Photos of Stratocaster Direct Slideshow

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Photo by John Tormalehto	Stratocaster direct this bad boy has a tough move ...	Josh...firing.
The hero clip.	Josh, post crux.	me mid-dyno for the jug of glory
worth the approach and then some.