Strapadictomy  5.11d

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 33 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  John Allen, Steve Bancroft, 16th May 1976 Submitted By:  Euan Cameron on Dec 1, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Placing the protection before the crux of Strapadi...

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Description 

This is a truly classic climb. Short, technical, powerful and spectacular.

Start below the arete, and climb directly up the arete to the break. The start isn't too technical, but it will get your attention.

Once at the break take time to place some good gear, and then reach out, way out, to the crack in the arete. Now go for it! One bomber cam will protect the crux moves up the arete.

Climb first up the finger crack and when that finishes make a killer move up to a slopping dish on the arete and finish.

Location 

Climb the steep arete in the middle of the buttress.

Protection 

Small cams.

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Simon launching out on the arete of Strapadictomy,...