L to R R to L Alpha
Excellent rock, sustained climbing, and an aesthetic line make this a must-do route. This was the very first new climb established in 2004, and the implications of a sport route on this wall were unclear at that time, hence the name. Start below a very shallow, right-facing flake. Fire up through the flake to a set of roofs, then a seam followed by a final, sting-in-the-tail section, then the anchors. (Squeezing the lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.)
Upper left end of the wall; bolt line immediately left of Hairlip BJ Ecstasy (see Squeezing the Lemmon.)
14 bolts, anchors.