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|Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>>|
This neglected routes is actually one of the better 5.12- routes at the crag. Chimney and stem up the corner to an obvious roof at the third bolt. Turn this roof on its left side using a couple of neat underclings, and snatch the jugs by the fourth bolt. Campus/traverse up and right on good holds but poor feet to a nice rest at the fifth bolt. At this point, you're through the crux, but a long, pumpy sequence of underclings separates you from the anchor. Definitely not over until you clip the chains!
In the grove of trees in the middle of the crag, just left of the hanging sled.
8 fixed draws to anchors. A stick clip is recommended, as the first bolt is quite high and the climbing may feel insecure at first, depending on you proficiency at trad climbing.
Reclip a few of the top draws on the way down so you aren't skewered by the tree when lowered.