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Kalalea Mountain, Kauai
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Stranded in Paradise T 

Stranded in Paradise 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brian Clark and Ryan Ray, Circa 2003
New Route: Yes
Season: When its not raining. This area gets lots of rain.
Page Views: 2,462
Submitted By: Ryan A. Ray on Oct 23, 2010

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One of the three anchors. I remember that on this...

Description 

Stranded in Paradise is not a high quality Rock route by most standards, but it was a blast and alot of fun to summit this awesome peak. This route if my memory serves me correct (its been 7 or 8 years or so now) follows the East or southeastern ridge which would be the face of king kong. Pitch one starts in the saddle between kongs face and the other peak and climbs up a vertical band of poor quality rock for approx 40 feet or so at maybe 5.8 or 5.9 and then hits a long sloping area covered with vegatation. More of a bushwack at this point. Pitch 2 went up through the vegetation and then up the easiest looking line on the rock to a belay stance wherever you can make it. I dont recall exact rating, but it was probably no harder than 5.7 or 5.8. Pitch 3 finished out the rock and topped out below the highly vegetated summit. Walk up to the summit for a fantastic view. Definately not a 5 star route, but it was an easy way to the summit of a fantastic peak with incredible views. A fun adventure worth doing if your stranded in paradise like we were.

Protection 

A selection of small nuts, possibly a few small cams. The protection is very poor on this peak, and the rock is very brittle. Your best bet is to bring some 2 foot slings and sling bushes along the way.

We set 3 rap stations on the way down. They consist of a couple of five piece rawls and a few drilled baby angles...but i would probably consider these suspect by now due to the corrosive salty air, and the fact that we could practically drill the holes with our hand drill by just turning it by hand without hammer blows.


Photos of Stranded in Paradise Slideshow Add Photo
Brian approaching the Belay on Pitch 2
Brian approaching the Belay on Pitch 2
View of Kalalea Mountain (Kong) from Anahola. Its the peak in the center that resembles the face of King Kong.
View of Kalalea Mountain (Kong) from Anahola. Its ...
The route follows this approximate line.  Look for the bolted anchors.  There are three of them.
The route follows this approximate line. Look for...
Brian on Pitch one of Stranded in Paradise.  The rock here was very poor with lots of loose holds.  I remember much of it was difficult to protect.
Brian on Pitch one of Stranded in Paradise. The r...
Brian following up the summit ridge.  Lots of vegetation on this route. But it was still loads of fun.
Brian following up the summit ridge. Lots of vege...
Bushwack anyone?  A fun adventure though.
Bushwack anyone? A fun adventure though.
Brian Rapping back off the route. I believe you need two ropes for the rap..but its been so long i cant remember anymore.
Brian Rapping back off the route. I believe you ne...

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