Straights of Magellan 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Comeau's, ffa: Gill,Larson,Noonan |
| Season: | early summer, fall |
| Submitted By: | burlap submariner on Dec 22, 2009 |
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>
The USFS issued a temporary closure due to nesting peregrine falcons. The closure should last from April through July. For more info, see www.fs.usda.gov/alerts/whitemountain/alerts-notices/?aid=109>>>
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description 40 foot straight in finger crack in left facing corner, when the left wall of the corner slabs out, follow the finger crack straight up a vertical wall, mantle to a two bolt anchor. STELLAR SINGLE PITCH ROUTE!!!!!. When I did this pitch in 2004 it was pretty clean, the pitches above ( 9+,9,5.ROTTEN!)looked like the womb of the devil herself (we bailed). The first pitch however is STELLAR, I cant stress it enough. The two bolt anchor at the top of pitch 1 is quarter inch leepers, they are junk and I backed them up with a nut (fixed). If you are in the area (rainbow slabs) its worth the hike up hill to climb it.
Location Painted Walls, Locate Windjammer (very obvious hanging "v" chimney/stembox) and walk right until you see the obvious splitter finger crack.
Protection single NH rack emphasis on fingers.
| Comments on Straights of Magellan |
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By john strand From: southern colo Dec 22, 2009
| WOW ! This pitch must have got a lot better. I barely remember it except for the bugs. |
By burlap submariner Dec 25, 2009
| for shure john it was "scrubby" when we first went up, I hit it with a wire brush on rap. |
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