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Straight Shot 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Nick Nordblom
Page Views: 2,310
Submitted By: Manjushri on Nov 19, 2007  with updates from Xtine

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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going for the crimp, straight shot (11d). photo by...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start just to the right of the main corner, stem your way into it and fire up with various stemming and crack technique to a roof. Pull around the right side and continue up the nice crack in a right facing corner above to the bolted anchor.

Location 

Just left of the Gin Ricky corner is a shorter, right facing corner with a roof about 2/3 of the way up, followed by a nice 1-2" crack.

Protection 

RP's, Nuts and cams to a #1 Camalot. Double up on fingers to the #1. Pro is good.


Photos of Straight Shot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Through the low crux
Through the low crux
Rock Climbing Photo: darren climbing straight shot (11d).  photo by kra...
darren climbing straight shot (11d). photo by kra...
Rock Climbing Photo: fiddling in an RP
fiddling in an RP
Rock Climbing Photo: Straight Shot (11d) follows the corner just left o...
BETA PHOTO: Straight Shot (11d) follows the corner just left o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up
Finishing up

Comments on Straight Shot Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Gicklhorn
From: Reno, NV
Jun 2, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Best route on the wall IMO if you climb the grade. Go for the onsight, it's strenuous and pretty wild, but the gear is great.
By paulmadry
Apr 25, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

Its ok. Not best on the wall IMHO. It was actually my first 5.11d lead ever but i like stemming. After plaing blue alient its a bit runout. i placed RP which was 90%, then go to start of the crack up right- goor rest and pro.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Dec 5, 2013

I thought this was harder than the respective pitch on Cloud Tower. It's a shorter crux, but felt pretty desperate for me. I did fall on both of them though... but CT felt very reasonable in comparison.

Could probably be top roped rapping from gin ricky
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oct 25, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I find it hard to call it the best route on the wall due to it's length, but it is an awesome route with wild stemming. I also found it well protected. I don't think it's runout at all unless you consider gear at your feet runout. Very stout in the grade, pushing into 12-.
By Jorge Jordan
May 23, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Thing eats small pro, all bomber. Crux is short, but HARD. Similar maybe in difficulty to the crux pitch on Jupiter II, definitely harder but much shorter crux than on CT. I was happy to have a #2 C4 when I got to the first roof, could place it a little deeper in better rock. I'd be even happier with thinner fingers. Really great short pitch.

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