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Straight Shooter Wall
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Straight Shooter T 

Straight Shooter 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 14,519
Submitted By: Scott Conner on Mar 6, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (172)
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Barbara from North Wales on 11/26/04.

Description 

Splitting the Straight Shooter wall is a perfect little finger crack. This is Straight Shooter.

There are no feet through the crux and if your fingers are on the large side it will feel harder than 5.9 (it did for me). Very short but fun little climb.

Rap with 1 rope.

  • There is a 5.11a right of this route that can be TR'd after SS is led. Thin slab!


Protection 

1 set of nuts, double cams .4"-.75, single cams 1"-3.5".



Photos of Straight Shooter Slideshow Add Photo
The P girl gettin' ready for pinky jams, 12/17/07.
The P girl gettin' ready for pinky jams, 12/17/07.
Dom onsights...
Dom onsights...
Dig my red tights <br />About 1983 maybe
Dig my red tights
About 1983 maybe
Todd Lane cruising Straight Shooter peacefully, and gracefully. <br /> <br />When I led this route awhile back, I found it to be a fun and straight-forward lead, but too physically demanding, for myself anyway. I was happy I made it to the top, but had to hang dog. <br /> <br />Poor Mountain Project J.C. (John Campbell) got an earful from me that day! But as J.C. says..."It's all good!" <br /> <br />Note: The bolt line to the right of Straight Shooter is the climb 'Sidewinder'
Todd Lane cruising Straight Shooter peacefully, an...
mellisa top ropes the straight shooter <br />
mellisa top ropes the straight shooter
Jonny firing up Straight Shooter.
Jonny firing up Straight Shooter.
sinker locks on straight shooter
sinker locks on straight shooter
This picture was taken from the trail where you turn to head up to straight shooter.  The route is approximately marked.  I'm hoping this will hope some people to find this wall.
BETA PHOTO: This picture was taken from the trail where you tu...
WE thought this was 5.10 back in 1984. I think I was wearing EB's though. <br />
WE thought this was 5.10 back in 1984. I think I w...
Top roping this beauty after leading it.  So good!
Top roping this beauty after leading it. So good!
Jason just beginning the crux section
BETA PHOTO: Jason just beginning the crux section
Giggles and grins on Straight Shooter
Giggles and grins on Straight Shooter
Straight Shooter
BETA PHOTO: Straight Shooter
Mark on Straight Shooter again in 2011, 27 years later, with a more refined style.
Mark on Straight Shooter again in 2011, 27 years l...
Straight Shooter
BETA PHOTO: Straight Shooter
Straight Shooter (5.9)
Straight Shooter (5.9)
Comments on Straight Shooter Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 16, 2014
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 19, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a good line, one of my favorite short routes in Red Rock.

A couple of thoughts for those considering it:

1) As I recall, a single set of cams to 3" works out okay, although a second green alien may come in handy near/after the crux. Good stopper use will eliminate the need for thin cams down low- save those for the crux.

2) This is a really good practice aid climb. Short enough to not take forever, and straight up and protectable enough to aid easily at C1. Also, you can fix the line and rappel. Practice hauling on the other side of the line, etc, etc. Just make sure if you do this, you're not preventing other folks from freeing the line.

3) This is a great route to see if you're ready to tackle .10a's. It used to be a .10, back in the day, but it really is more like .9+. However, if you can get on this and pull through without too much trouble, I'd go hop on a .10 or two- you're likely ready!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 12, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Solid for the grade. Arguably 5.10a. More physically difficult and less tricky than other climbs at that grade range.

By ashcan
Jan 31, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Finger size is key. Crux is short. Super Fun and Safe! What is the difference between 9+ and 10a?

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 31, 2007

9+ is harder than 10a. ;-)

... and 9++ is harder than 10b!

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 3, 2007

Second pitch looked somewhat dicey and manky. One of the belay bolts at its base was chopped. Very thin off of the ledge, so hard (impossible) to back up the existing bolt w/o committing. Wouldn't want to fall onto that singe bolt with my partner already on it, and nothing else in... Too bad, could have been better than it looked, but w/o an anchor wasn't worth it.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 14, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route! Good pro and fun moves. Works for all finger sizes. My sausages fit well with long reaches between the thin stuff.

By jblackattack
From: las vegas, nv
Oct 4, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Did this route today on a beautiful sunny day. It was a very fun route although short. Definitely a great test piece to see how you are for 5.9-.10a leading

By PDF
Feb 21, 2009

Good Route, good gear.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 5, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

not sure how aiding on cams is going to alter the crack's size...its bullet sandstone- not zion.

obviously cam hooks should be discouraged, but they are not needed anyway.

folks aid this thing regularly- have for years...its one of the few lines in RR that is accessible for learning to aid.

By JSH
Administrator
Jan 11, 2010

There are feet at the crux. Just sayin'!

By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Apr 1, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Had a family "sitting" on this one but the wait was worth it. I've got somewhat small digits and the reach between the thin section was no problem since I'm 6'1". I missed the boat on saving a nice green Alien after the crux and ran it out to the anchors (a bit spooky since I suck at climbing cracks). Fairly sustained 5.9 climbing. Beautiful!!

By Canon
Dec 8, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

So good! Almost all small gear; I think the crack is #2 TCU sized and it really stays that way. I TR'd the thing; my sausage fingers were screaming for mercy.

By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Mar 15, 2013

This was a fantastic single pitch route. I don't think I placed anything bigger than a .75 Camalot. Could easily be led on mostly passive pro with a few cams for the crux.

By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Nov 7, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

After the lead, I did a couple TR's. Crux is short but that move is 5.10

By Ben Wiessner
Dec 3, 2013

this pitch has some nice moves for about 5 metres. Don't get your expectations too high :)

By Alex Wood
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jan 21, 2014

I tried to climb this route on January 7th, 2014. I was approaching the wall and saw something scurry back in the wider portion of the crack about 8 feet up. I didn't think much of it at the time and maybe thought it was a small lizard. I started to climb, placed a piece and saw a massive tail hanging out of the crack. At first I thought it was a snake and then a gila monster. So I downclimbed and left. Turns out, after looking at the photo I took, it was a chukwalla in the crack. Apparently chuckwallas commonly wedge themselves in cracks when they feel threatened and expand their bodies to "cam" themselves in the cracks. In hindsight, I should have used the chuckwalla as pro by slinging and then I should have kept climbing....

By Blake Allen Green
May 16, 2014

Ha! Alex you got sandbagged off a classic climb by a chuckwalla. That'll teach you to hone your desert reptile identification skills...