This clean, juggy wall is one of the steeper consistently angled 5.11s at Shelf, and if it were at Cactus, it would be a popular, highly polished classic.
Begin directly or with some easy stemming up orangish rock. Gain the crack feature and follow it up the gently overhanging wall. When the crack disappears, good sinker pockets provide snaking passage up the wall. The angle relents to vertical, then a slight slab and some technical moves out right & around the arete. Easier climbing up the double cracks on excellent stone lead to the top.
On the far right end of Spiney Ridge, only a few yards from turning the corner to The Gym, is a buttress with ~6 routes. This is the fourth bolted line from the right end.
Bolts to 2 BA.
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 30, 2010
I thought this route was kinda chossy for the first 3 bolts. Clip another then jump right around the corner (various ways to do this). Continue up past another couple of bolts to a horribly placed bolt anchor.
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Didn't really think this route was that great. Not the best quality rock, lower crux is kind of poorly protected (seemed like a good opportunity to pummel your belayer if you come off), the anchor is crappy, and the climbing is just so-so.