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Central Gully
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Blue In Green S 
Footprints S 
Helicopter Effect T 
Magali's Arete S 
Objectivist Tendencies T 
Rational Expectations S 
Seven Steps to Heaven S 
Snickerdoodle S 
Spontaneous Order S 
Straight, No Chaser T 
Tee it Up, Cupcake S 

Straight, No Chaser 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Romain Wacziarg and Matthew Fienup, December 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 976
Submitted By: Romain Wacziarg on Dec 6, 2008

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Romain Wacziarg on the first ascent of Straight, N...


This is a sustained route. The first half goes up a steep part of the wall with small holds. Two distinct cruxes are found passing the third and fourth bolts (5.10c). On the second half, the angle eases up a bit and 5.9 climbing up a right-slanting hand crack leads to two anchor bolts on the right side of the summit triangle. To descend, rappel off to the climber's right, into the central gully.


This route is the only one currently on the left side of the Central Gully. From the rappel bolts at the top of "Footprints", walk left along a ledge for about 20 yards to the base of a triangular flatiron. A line of bolts will be visible in the center of the formation.


7 bolts for the bottom portion (all 1/2" Rawls), 3-4 small cams to protect the crack at the top of the route. Two rappel anchors at the top.

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Route topo for Straight No Chaser, at the Fortress...
BETA PHOTO: Route topo for Straight No Chaser, at the Fortress...

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By nomore
May 23, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

this climb was cool. it would have been alot cooler if whoever bolted it left the bolting to those who could bolt on lead. those who bolt on rappel should die on rappel!
By andy patterson
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 7, 2009

I, for one, applaud the selfless bolting efforts of Matt and Romain. Thanks for your hard work and vision regarding this oft-overlooked area. I also hope that no one "dies on rappel".

Happy climbing...
By staem
Apr 5, 2010

This is second to only Natural Rate of Unemployment. Same style up the center of the face. A bit more dirty but so what. climb it and then post
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