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Straight No Chaser 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: first lead rich bechler and steve sangdahl and dale moir 1983
Page Views: 4,719
Submitted By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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The Late Rob Drysdale on lead circa 1989.
Photo: D...

Description 

this great variation to y-crack(aka old and in the way)is a classic lead ,takes good gear and will pump you up.i remember rich got bamboozled into leading this right after he broke his finger in the ditch on zodiac because he thought some rookie was gonna do it before us.great picture to follow.


Protection 

cams and wires



Photos of Straight No Chaser Slideshow Add Photo
Ben I. onsight attempt. May O8
Ben I. onsight attempt. May O8
The money shot, one of my favorites on one of the best climbs in Wisconsin...or anywhere!
The money shot, one of my favorites on one of the ...
Rich Bechler ,Straight No Chaser.
Rich Bechler ,Straight No Chaser.
Ryan on the classic, Straight No Chaser. <br /> <br /> <br />
Ryan on the classic, Straight No Chaser.


Rhoads.
Rhoads.
Solid.
Solid.
Rhoads having a little fun.
Rhoads having a little fun.
Leading June 14th, 2009. Photo by Kris Gorny
Leading June 14th, 2009. Photo by Kris Gorny
Ryan sending Straight No Chaser at sundown. Photo:Ben Scheele.
Ryan sending Straight No Chaser at sundown. Photo:...
MG cleaning gear just below the crux.
MG cleaning gear just below the crux.
The start of the difficulties.
The start of the difficulties.
Rich Bechler leadin' Straight No Chaser
Rich Bechler leadin' Straight No Chaser
Comments on Straight No Chaser Add Comment
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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 16, 2006

Four stars anywhere in the country. Bomber gear at the crux. A rite of passage lead for many a Wisconsin climber. Just lead this recently again. One can pretty much sew the thing up, and you never really have to climb above your gear if you don't want to... Rack from the crotch of the Y: #4 BD stopper, #3 BD Cam, Green WC cam, #8 BD stopper (crux piece), array of wires topping out.

By Eddie Avallone
From: Lewisburg, WV
Oct 27, 2006

If you don't want to mess around with fishing for nuts, the top protects great with a green alien, #3 Camalot and #2 Camalot. That's it. Bomber . Bottom takes .75 and two #1 Camalots. Fantastic lead.

By John Yaworsky
Dec 4, 2006

as the "rookie" that was going to lead it before them I was impressed by the thoughtful notes written to me in chalk when I did it a couple days later. Lesson: never tell anyone what your next project is.

By Leo Hski
Mar 7, 2007

... and I bet the notes scrawled in chalk were simple, declarative statements! The "DLFA Proper Use of English" guide is quite clear on this matter.

By richard bechler
Jan 13, 2009

Jesus John Yaworsky get over it. You should just be lucky you did not show up the day I was discharging the .357 magnum. That would of given you something to really get all caught up in a hissy fit about. I miss the time we spent together at Glencoe. You where a real nice guy to climb with.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 13, 2009

more gear beta (because it's really needed..haha): (from the bottom), .75 BD/black metolius, #3 camalot, #3 camalot, #1 camalot (in upper/smaller pod), #2 camalot (in crack out right) or small nut (if going straight up).

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 21, 2009

When it really comes down to it, gear beta is only a hint at what you might want...

By Tradoholic
Apr 23, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Way harder on lead. I TR'd it easy then sacked up for the lead but soon realized the good pro was also where the good hands were. Took a few whips before I figured it out. Got even harder when the sun hit it! Couple of finger torquer moves as well. Enjoy!

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I agree with you "Trad Ninja" that the pro is where your hands need to be but after coming out of the crotch a #2 Camalot sits nicely above a good handjam, then pull some moves off a matching sloper hold into a good hold- skip the cam placement there and pull up a on a few more crimps, slot a nut and take it to the top. This is a fantastic route and is probably best done in cooler temps.