Straight Jacket  5.11d

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Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet FA:  Brock Berry and Steve Briggs 1997 Submitted By:  Brian Quiter on May 9, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The right-most climb on the platform of the main Detox Wall, Straight Jacket begins in a diagnal slopey finger crack past the first two bolts. It moves right to a slightly wider crack, parallel to the first, then finally through a third crack over the crux bulge to the anchors.

Some would think the crux move must be done dynamically, but it doesn't.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

You can toprope straight jacket by rappelling from the top anchor of Intervention (.10d) or the anchor shared by Daily Prayer (.10c) and Betty Ford's Route (.9).