Straight Into Frantic Oblivion  5.13d

295 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.13d [details] FA:  Kevin Wilkinson Submitted By:  Rstrang on Dec 30, 2012 You & This Route Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Ed Strang fires the last move for the 2nd ascent
...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>> The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Currently the hardest route at Last Chance. A difficult boulder problem starts at the horizontal roof after the 3rd bolt. After this the climbing then turns to big move endurance jugs past the chain draw section to the anchors

Location 

3rd route from left side of Soltice Cave. Between Infernal Justice and It Puts The Buff On

Protection 

5 bolts (need QD's)then 4 more chain perma draws to the anchor

Route Notes 

I posted the rating at 13+ rather than the original 14- rating based on what Ed Strang thought of it after sending. Ed thought it was a touch harder or similar to some 13d's but easier than Zulu (5.14a) at Rifle.
The next day as John Gogas watched 14 year old Ben Hanna send it he (John) thought that it might have been the 2nd time the route had been climbed (not knowing that Ed had sent it the day before!!). Nice 2012 Christmas presents for Ed & Ben if those are infact the 2nd & 3rd ascents of this difficult route!!

Photos of Straight Into Frantic Oblivion Slideshow

Add Photo

Wild looking climbing.	Ed Strang in the middle of the business Straight...	Starting the roof crux on Straight Into Frantic Ob...
Ben working the route. December 2012.