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Solstice Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Essence of Darkness S 
Eternal Sunshine S 
Fireball S 
Hot Tamale S 
Infernal Justice S 
It Put's the Buff On S 
Solstice S 
Straight Into Frantic Oblivion S 
Total Eclipse S 

Straight Into Frantic Oblivion 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Kevin Wilkinson
Page Views: 665
Submitted By: Rstrang on Dec 30, 2012

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Ed Strang fires the last move for the 2nd ascent ...

Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Currently the hardest route at Last Chance. A difficult boulder problem starts at the horizontal roof after the 3rd bolt. After this the climbing then turns to big move endurance jugs past the chain draw section to the anchors

Location 

3rd route from left side of Soltice Cave. Between Infernal Justice and It Puts The Buff On

Protection 

5 bolts (need QD's)then 4 more chain perma draws to the anchor

Route Notes 

I posted the rating at 13+ rather than the original 14- rating based on what Ed Strang thought of it after sending. Ed thought it was a touch harder or similar to some 13d's but easier than Zulu (5.14a) at Rifle.
The next day as John Gogas watched 14 year old Ben Hanna send it he (John) thought that it might have been the 2nd time the route had been climbed (not knowing that Ed had sent it the day before!!). Nice 2012 Christmas presents for Ed & Ben if those are infact the 2nd & 3rd ascents of this difficult route!!


Photos of Straight Into Frantic Oblivion Slideshow Add Photo
Wild looking climbing.
Wild looking climbing.
Benjamin Hanna
Benjamin Hanna
Ben working the route. December 2012.
Ben working the route. December 2012.
Starting the roof crux on Straight Into Frantic Ob...
Starting the roof crux on Straight Into Frantic Ob...
Ed Strang in the middle  of the business  Straight...
Ed Strang in the middle of the business Straight...

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By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 1, 2013

Cool to see it's been repeated. I think when we watched Kevin working for the 1st ascent he was skipping the lower section to rehearse the crux moves below the roof. We just heard the shouts of joy from over at Violin Wall.